Category Features

Point 80: BPA Fundraising Auction

Gene Gowen
Body Piercing Archives Fundraising Coordinator

I would like to start by thanking everyone who contributed to this year’s Body Piercing Archive Fund- raising Auction. Your donations went towards the preservation of our living history and the history of those who helped us all get here.

Going into this year’s Conference, I again wanted to come up with items that were functional. For the last several years, I have carried my own jewelry in a protective book for safe and easy transport. When brainstorming ideas for this year’s project, I began to think of all the Conference attendees leaving Vegas with their precious new jewelry acquisitions. So with this year’s donations of shirts, we made jewelry travel cases.

Different from last year, this year’s items were conceived to connect us not just with studios and companies but with our jewelry itself. As sort of a self effacing reminder of the inexorable tie that binds us all. Studios can open and close, piercers may move all over the world, companies may fade into obscurity. Come what may, however we find ourselves in this industry, we are all bound and driven by the jewelry.

This year’s BPA exhibit featured gonzo photographer Charles Gatewood. Photos by Kendra Jane B.

Looking ahead, we have already begun the process of creating fundraising donations for the 2018 Conference. The collection of iconic studio and company shirts from this year yielded more than enough material for next year’s project. We’ll be returning with some of the items that were so popular at last year’s Conference, but we will have plenty of other new creations with us as well.


This year’s BPA exhibit featured gonzo photographer Charles Gatewood. Photos by Kendra Jane B.

I am thankful to everyone who has made a purchase or donation on behalf of the BPA. There is no amount of money nor is there any amount of effort that is insignificant in the scramble to save our past before it eludes us. I would like to once again express my gratitude to the Archives Committee for allowing me the opportunity to be of help, however rudimentary it may be, to the APP and its membership.

Yours in service.

Point 80: The BPA Jewelry Exhibit

Matte Erickson
The Body Piercing Archive
(All photos taken by the Author)

In June of 2016 I was tasked with a project. That project was to curate an exhibit of vintage body jewelry companies and designs. I was both excited and terrified at the same time. This was to be the first project that was solely on my shoulders, but I had the confidence, drive, and belief in this project and myself to know I could do a good job. I also knew I would have to rely on people, which is something I am not very good at.

I decided that the APP Conference in 2016 was the best time to put the word out and   try to get people interested. In the following months, there seemed to be little interest, but I pressed on. The Point staff was kind enough to run the advertisement in every issue. At this point I was raiding my own archives; documenting, photographing, and inventorying as much as possible.

In September, I got a message from Paul King about reaching out to Josh Warner from Good Art HLYWD. I emailed Josh and he wanted to gift us with old Good Art items, however, he was moving to a new shop and was going to be unavailable for a few months. This allowed me to start reaching out to anyone I could think of that was involved in manufacturing. In December I got a message from Anne Ott about the Anti-Bling eyelets; seriously one of the “Holy Grail” pieces from Custom Steel.

As January approached, I had booked a flight to Los Angeles and secured an appointment with Josh Warner. While in LA, I was meeting Anne to pick up the Anti-Bling eyelets before heading over to Good Art HLYWD. Upon arrival I was met by a grizzly, bearded man with a cheerful disposition. This is Josh. We jump right into old stories and a quick tour of his new shop. Thankfully, I had my GoPro with me and caught it all on video. After about an hour of him telling stories of how it all evolved and who the key players were, he presents a large folder full of vintage Good Art memorabilia and said, “take what you want”. I was like a kid in a candy store. I managed to fill my carry-on bag and still had to send 2 packages to my shop with all the items.

As I was heading to one of my favorite food destinations (Jerry’s Deli in Studio City), I got a call from John Kittell from NeoMetal. He was sending out some items with my next order for the exhibit. At this point, I felt the momentum growing. I also felt my hunger growing and Jerry’s was getting closer. When I got there I ordered 8 deconstructed Reuben sandwiches. I ate one (minus the cheese and Russian dressing) on the way to LAX. The other seven were packed in my bag. You know something? TSA looks at you really strangely when you are delivering sandwiches from LA to Sacramento.

That next week, I received the packages I sent from Good Art and the first Neometal shipment. The next few weeks were filled with photographing, cataloging, organizing, and making museum cards for each piece. During this time, I had sent the Anti-Bling eyelets back to Pat Pruitt for repair and restoration, and kept reaching out to other companies. I had also started teaching myself video editing and how to create intro and outro graphics. Just as I was finishing up with my deliveries, I received another box from Neometal and I got word that I had a box on the way from Body Circle Design. By the time I had receive these next items, I had my process streamlined fairly well. Good thing, because Dallas Suscon was right around the corner. Upon returning from Dallas I started wrapping up all the pieces.

May was filled with building display items and totally stressing out. I also managed to secure (thank you Sean Dowdell) a meeting/interview with Erik Dakota, so off to Santa Cruz I went. During my visit he also presented me with a stack of old catalogs and a few great stories. When I returned to my shop, I spent several days editing video and putting together the graphics. I actually had to redo this four

times! The last time it was all rendered properly and I found a typo. UGH! This project was starting to take its toll on me, but upward I pushed.

June came, there was light at the end of the tunnel. I had reserved a trailer and maintenance on the truck was done. Finally I got word from Becky Dill that the Charles Gatewood exhibit boxes were ready to pick up. I headed down to Concord, CA. It was now a few days before Conference, and during all this I was still receiving little packages here and there. The Friday before Conference I finally heard from Pat Pruitt about the eyelets. He was shipping them directly to Las Vegas!

Saturday, the day before I had to leave for Las Vegas, I had the bright idea to go photograph the Sonoma County Hot Air Balloon Classic. It was being held about an hour away, and I had to be there by 5 a.m. I went and shot the balloons then headed home, picked up the trailer, and was off to work. Most of the day was spent loading the trailer and finishing up details. I finished up at 7:30 p.m. (we close at 8:00 p.m.). My stress levels were at their peak. Did I have enough stuff? Did I do it justice? I ended up getting to bed around midnight.

I was back up at 3:30 a.m. and ready for the road. The trip was as uneventful as usual. A little slower maybe, since I was pulling a trailer, but still uneventful. I finally arrived in Las Vegas at around 3:00 p.m.  Unloading was expedient, which was good because I was exhausted. You know, there is something strange that happens at Conference. I was exhausted and road weary, but once I saw the first few people, I felt a second wind come over me and I was ready to press on into the night.

With Monday came setup  and all was going well. The stress was draining away with every piece I put out. At least until I set the TV up. I had purchased it about a month prior and I told the guy at Best Buy that I needed to  stream  video off a flash drive. He assured me that   it would. Well, when I set it up, it would run pictures off a flash drive but not video. Back to stress mode. After a quick run to Walmart for an HDMI cable, I hooked up my trusty laptop to the TV and it worked. Crisis averted.

Tuesday was the first day of the Expo. I picked up my last package from the business center on the way and the first visitors came by to see what we had for sale. They quickly learned we weren’t selling, just displaying. As the week went on, more and more people came by to see the relics. The enthusiasm was intoxicating! So many people had questions and stories. It was educational on both sides.

The highlight of Conference this year, however, came by text. I was having dinner and Becky texted me and said I had won the “Best Multiple Booth” award. I was blown away. I thought I had done a pretty good job, but obviously I wasn’t the only one. I am so thankful to all those that voted for my exhibit, loaned items for display, and supported me while I put this all together. I would also like to give special thanks to Josh Warner (Good Art HLYWD), John Kittell (NeoMetal), Gale Shub (Body Circle Design), Pat Pruitt (Custom Steel/Pat Pruitt Metalsmith), and Erik Dakota for taking the time and effort to gather and donate items. I would also like to thank my family for putting up with me being stressed and cranky for so long. Hard work always pays off!

Point 80: The BPA Charles Gatewood Exhibit

Kendra Jane B.
Vice-President & The Point Editor
(Unless otherwise noted, photos are by the Author)
A view of the BPA Charles Gatewood exhibit. Visible at the rear is the pavilion containing The Dream Machine

Charles Gatewood holds a special place in the heart of the body piercing industry. He used his camera to bring what was  once  private  to  the  masses. He had a very special ability to capture what others viewed as grotesque in the most beautiful ways. After the passing of Charles last year, the Body Piercing Archive knew how important it was to preserve our history as it intertwined with the photography of Charles Gatewood. From this, the 2017 Body Piercing Archive exhibit at the APP Conference was born. We were fortunate enough to have Eva Marie the “last Gatewood girl” present to lead tours of our exhibit and share her own accounts of her time with Charles. I was able to set some time aside to take one of her docent tours; it was truly the highlight of my Conference week. I have long been a huge fan of Charles’s work and had begun conversing with him regularly just before he passed. Getting the opportunity to listen to someone share their personal accounts of time spent with Charles, beyond what we can read in a book, was absolutely wonderful. Here is what Eva Marie had to say about her experience at Conference.

I was first introduced to Charles by his friend Steven Leyba, the painter. Steven had approached me asking if he could use images of me for some of his paintings. Here are my requests he said  ‘I need up close, in focus, hi-resolution photos of your genitals.’ I was excited for the collaboration, but wasn’t sure who to approach for such an intimate photoshoot. Several days later I got an email saying ‘My dear friend Charles Gatewood agreed to the photos. Why don’t you give him a call?’

Charles and I talked on the phone several times and set up a time to meet at his studio. When I arrived, he gave me a lovely tour of his penthouse apartment and made  a pot of tea. We talked for hours discovering we shared similar interests and hobbies. We both loved to make collages from old mag- azines, write short stories, and take kooky self-portraits. ‘This is a direct hit my dear!’ We agreed to meet once a week every Sunday, then more and more frequently until I was a full time “Gatewood Girl”.

Longtime Gatewood companion and archivist Eva Marie with BPA curator Paul King giving another presentation on the photographer at San Franciscos Center for Sex and Culture

Charles liked to create and go into what he called magic space. He would get bored with traditional pose and  shoot  models  and would turn down most offers for photoshoots unless he felt someone had a spark. Sometimes he would create magic space with something as simple as a scrap piece  of fabric, or he’d use the sunlight peeking through the kitchen windows to create patterns of shadow across your face. He would grab an old can of paint and splash some  on a piece of black plywood to create an interesting background. When he got a really killer photograph, he would get a creative high, and his eyes would light up and shine. He always insisted there be a bag of toys, props, and accessories somewhere  nearby whether it be goofy sunglasses, studded leather collars, or fuzzy bunny ears. On his living room table, he kept a fresh bouquet  of stargazer lilies, his favorite flowers. There would usually be whipped cream, chocolate syrup, candy sprinkles, or spaghetti-o’s on hand, not to snack on, but for messy splosh photoshoots. There was an inflatable kiddie pool in the living room at all times!

Charles and I would sit in the living room, drinking cups of tea, and he would tell me these incredible stories behind his photographs. We would flip through pages of his books and he would grab Wall Street say ‘Now this is the time I was out with my camera on New Year’s Eve in Manhattan and I got mugged.’ Or pick up True Blood and say ‘This is when a bunch of vampire blood fetishists called me up at 8am for a wild photoshoot that scared even me!’ He would tell me stories about the first time he met Annie Sprinkle and how through her Sprinkle Salon gatherings, he was introduced to Fakir Musafar.

Eva Marie commenting on one of the exhibits

It was amazing to see such an extensive body of his work in one place during this year’s Association of Professional Piercer’s Conference. I was flooded with memories of Charles telling me stories and filled with immense gratitude that I was able to share these stories with so many people from all over the world. Some folks were very familiar with Charles Gatewood’s books and art, some had stories to share with me of their time with Charles. For those who weren’t as familiar with his work, I think they walked away with a definite idea of the contribution Charles made to the history of body piercing. What I thought was really special was every now and then someone would flip through a book or see one of his collages and say ‘Hey, that’s me!’

I believe Charles was aware of the impact his work had on the Body Piercing Industry. He began photographing pierced people in the ‘70s after his friend and fellow Helllfire club regular tattoo artist Spider Webb told him that one  day  piercing  would be as popular as tattooing. Charles used to say he made the art he did for the ‘True Believers’—the people who choose to live outside societal norms. True Believers for him were the folks who weren’t afraid to be different or original, and held conviction in the unconventional lifestyles they lived. I believed photographing people in the piercing industry was so significant for him because to Charles, he had found a very special community of True Believers.”

Image from a scrapbook of Gatewood images
Image from a scrapbook of Gatewood images
Image from a scrapbook of Gatewood images

Indeed, he had many true believers in our community, with myself being one of them. It was an honor and pleasure to be able to speak with Eva Marie, all while looking at a collection to honor the life and works of Charles Gatewood. I would like to add a special thanks to Paul King, Becky Dill, Matte Erickson, Danielle Greenwood, and Jennifer McMahon for their contributions to this exhibit, without which would have been impossible.

Jennifer McMahon was responsible for building a replica of The Dream Machine which was available to view in the archive display. It brought Charles’ vision and the entire display to life. Post conference it was purchased by Steve Joyner and will reside with him as part of his personal collection.

Point 80: Choosing the President’s Award Recipient

Jef Saunders
APP President
Derek Lowe
Photo by Matte Erickson

Deciding on who should receive the President’s Award seemed like a daunting task to me, until I realized that Derek Lowe hadn’t yet been a recipient of it. I cannot imagine the Association of Professional Piercers without Derek. I believe that one of the reasons the Conference Committee had chosen Derek Lowe as the speaker for our Conference’s Orientation for so long is that Derek embodies so many qualities that we want our organization to represent: strong, rational, mature, friendly and always there when you need him. Derek is a member of the Oversight Committee, and in that position is a resource to the Board offering historical context and insight when necessary. He has been an enormous influence on me as a person, a piercer, and an APP Member. It was truly an honor to be able to present the award to him, and I will always be grateful for the opportunity to do so.

Derek Lowe & Mark Montgomery
Photos by Matte Erickson

Point 80: Creative Innovator Award

Tether Jewelry & Other Couture for the “Olympica” Design

The Award winning Olympica design

At this year’s Exposition, Tether Jewelry & Other Couture won the Creative Innovator’s Award with their “Olympica” design. This design is available in yellow and rose gold, naked, and obsidian as part of Tether’s Noachis Terra collection. I had the opportunity to interview Paul Shinichi from Tether about this design and his experiences in the Expo.

Marina: This is your second year as a vendor at Conference. How were the two experiences different?

Tether Jewelry: It felt really good my second year to have studios and piercers come to our booth the first day specifically seeking us out, eager & excited to see the new collection. It makes me extremely happy knowing some- thing I designed is bringing someone joy and excitement when they wear it. It feels like I’m on the right path.

Last year I was so nervous, honestly now it is a giant blur. I made some rookie mistakes, but I definitely learned a lot! From a logistics standpoint, just knowing what to expect this year made it so much easier. We bring quite a bit of inventory to the Expo, so studios can take all the jewels home with them. This year, I had one person specifically handling all jewelry operations and that made everything smoother and quicker. Actually, I would like to shout out to my crew for making this year’s experience amazing. Eleni Evangelatos, Lilly O’Neill, and Sara Martin—y’all are magnificent!

Marina: You were awarded the Creative Innovator Award last year as well. How did that influence your submission in 2017?

Tether Jewelry: I really wanted to collaborate with someone for this year’s entry. Mike Knight, owner, designer, and jeweler for Other Couture, and I had been sharing little sneak peeks at what we had been working on in months previous. He is someone I have a lot of respect for, and he always pushes to do more innovative and detail oriented work, super inspiring stuff. So it just made sense to work together.

Paul Shinichi of Tether and Michael Knight of Other Couture were awarded the Creative Innovator Award. Photo by Autumn Swisher

Marina: Tell us about the Olympica design. What makes it so special?

Tether Jewelry: I’ve been wanting to design a large gauge hidden hinge ring for quite some time. I just thought ‘wouldn’t it be cool if it was one continuous design and you almost can’t figure out where the seam is, almost like a puzzle!?’ After many failed attempts, I finally got it. This design in particular had several iterations because steel is so difficult to work with, especially when you are casting it. What works in gold and silver might not work in steel. It’s a great design idea and I’m already planning more larger-gauge hidden-hinge concepts for next year!

Marina: Aside from the Olympica design, do you have a personal favorite in this year’s collection?

Tether Jewelry: I’m a big fan of the Vitae design. I’m actually wearing them right now. That’s one of the perks of being a designer, designing things for yourself! This design is a nod to my love of marquise cut stones.

Marina: Last year, we asked if you had words of wisdom to share with small manufacturers getting their start in the body modification industry. You answered to “plan for the long game.” Can you expand on that advice?

Tether Jewelry: I am the new guy and I’m still learning how to run this business the best that I can. However, I’m not new to the industry. I’m putting in the time to Tether, much like I did in my piercing career. You need to put in as much time as possible, and just make it work. It can be super challenging at times. I mean, I still drive for Uber on the weekends. Also, it’s not always about designing jewelry. It’s about learning the business side too. I read and listen to a crazy amount of entrepreneurial articles, books, and podcasts. I can make a pretty decent customized spreadsheet now!

The definition of success can vary dramatically from one artist to the next. For me it has changed and evolved over time.

The long game is complicated. Most makers don’t want to make production pieces or outsource and I completely understand why. The long game, in my opinion, rests on the success of brick and mortar studios. If more makers in our industry build interesting products that will sustain a reselling market it’s a win/win. I think there is a huge void in our industry of mid-range retail products that are well made, interesting, and made from steel alloys.

The biggest hurdle for me as a designer was switching my mindset from “I want to make the best quality, most bad-ass jewelry ever” to “I want to make well built, bad-ass jewelry, that studios can sell to a wider audience.”

Marina: Is there anything else you’d like to share with The Point readership?

Tether Jewelry: Do more 14 gauge piercings!

Point 80: Technical Innovator Award

Buddha Jewelry Organics for the “Halo” Design

Chloe DeSimone for Buddha Organics Jewelry

Buddha Jewelry Organics took home the Technical Innovator’s Award for their “Halo” design. I had the opportunity to interview Katrina Wickersham regarding the history of their company and their inspiration for this design.

Marina: Tell us a little about the history of Buddha Jewelry Organics. Your website has a synopsis, but it sounds like quite a journey. Tell us more.

Buddha Jewelry Organics: In 1991 Rion began piercing and in 1998 began designing and carving wood jewelry for the original Organics company. During a trip to Bali in 2002, Rion started collaborating with local artisans and Buddha Jewelry Organics was officially established! In 2004 Rion and I partnered personally and professionally. I have always had a love for piercing and jewelry, but came from an international business/fashion background. We quickly realized that our design aesthetics both contrasted and complemented the others in a unique way, and thus the Buddha Jewelry Organics design perspective was born. We have three piercing and tattoo studios in the Seattle area, which give us a unique insight into the studio owner/ jewelry buyer perspective, as well as the end client’s experience. Between our studios and traveling often for our jewelry, Rion and I stay pretty hands on. When Cassidi joined our team in 2013, she elevated BJO to new heights. BJO really is a team effort and that collaboration has a wonderful impact on both the direction of the company and our jewelry designs.

Marina: How has that unique history influenced the company you are now?

Buddha Jewelry Organics: We express who we are as people and what we love about life through our jewelry. We love to travel; we love to study cultures both traditional and modern, people, architecture, landscapes, art. We find inspiration everywhere, and love translating our experiences into new designs. Nature is an element that strongly influences our jewelry. Rion and I initially connected over our shared passion for outdoor activities like snowboarding, surfing, and hiking. We have a huge respect for the inherent beauty of natural materials and often our jewelry is about showcasing that in a progressive, wearable way. I design jewelry that I want to wear, usually from a more couture point of view. Rion is definitely more innovative and comes up with the most amazing ideas. We definitely inspire each other. Cassidi has also brought a new perspective and has had a great impact on our designs as well. There’s definitely a synergy, we’re super blessed to have the small team we do.

HALO

Marina: What was the inspiration behind the “Halo” design? What makes this design unique?

Buddha Jewelry Organics: We are slightly obsessed with stones and crystals… shocking right? I have a very edgy, high-fashion point of view and Rion is insanely creative. Our goal was to showcase the raw beauty of the crystal- line structure and the stone, but in a very modern structural way. We played around with different variations and combinations until we just knew that we had something we wanted to wear every day. For us, that’s the win.

Marina: Buddha offers a diverse collection of styles. Do you all have any personal favorites?

Kat: I have so many personal favorites, when you design something and see it brought from an idea to a physical creation it’s a sort of birth, and I get attached to those designs. I’m a nerd, I can’t help it. Right now I’m really into our Osiris weights for everyday and of course my pair of Halo weights.

Conference attendees checking out the award competitors.

Rion: I wear the Idol plugs almost every day, or the Luxe weights. I also really love the Deco fans.

Cassidi: I love the Muse hoops, I’m obsessed with the crystalline rawness mixed with the streamline metal.  I also really love the Deco weights, I can wear them to work and a fancy event, they look great anywhere. I really love anything vintage inspired.

Marina: As a well-known and established jewelry company, do you have any words of wisdom you’d like to share with up-and-coming manufacturers in our industry?

Buddha Jewelry Organics: Stay true to yourself and your style. The wonderful thing about jewelry is that each designer brings a unique perspective and adds a new dimension.

Kat and Ryan Wickersham and their Technical Innovator Award

Marina: Is there anything else you’d like to share with The Point readership?

Buddha Jewelry Organics: We’re just really grateful for all of the continued support! We’re excited to see our industry evolving and look forward to sharing our new collection with everyone!

Point 80: Single Booth Award- Uzu Organics & Phoenix Revival Jewelry

At this year’s Exposition, Uzu Organics and Phoenix Revival Jewelry won the single booth award with their joint display. Their olive overtones were a hot topic of discussion amongst many Expo-goers. I had the opportunity to interview Cale Belford of Uzu Organics and Dustin Allor of Phoenix Revival Jewelry.

Marina: How long have you been producing body jewelry and how did you get started? Was there a particular inspiration or genesis event?

Uzu Organics: I’ve been making jewelry for years, but began weights for stretched ears about five years ago. I’ve always been a knitter/crocheter and I was looking to try something different with my craft. I love body jewelry (being a piercer, of course) and my goal was to combine my passion for both crochet and jewelry. After a few experimental pieces, friends started making orders with me and it just branched out from there.

Phoenix Revival: No particular genesis. One of my first jobs in the industry when I was 18 was working at Dakota Steel where the Fakir line of body jewelry was produced. I have always created jewelry in one form or another, but about seven years ago I began taking jewelry making classes and started producing some of my own designs for body piercings and stretched ears.

Marina: Are all of your products completely handmade? Do you use any special tools during your process?

Uzu Organics: I’d say about 95% of my product is created with my own hands. I bend the majority of my own brass and titanium, but this last couple of years I’ve been using large gauge hooks to attach some of the pieces to, and though they are handmade, they are not by my hands. I try to keep it from my hands only as much as I possibly can!

Phoenix Revival: The originals are all handmade, but I use a lot of tools. Once I have a master of a design I can make copies, depending on the design. There are tons of special tools used depending on what process I’m using; fabrication versus casting for example. They each have specialized tools, but nothing I make is automated and there are always hands in the process.

Marina: You offer a wide variety of styles and materials. Do you have a personal favorite?

Uzu Organics: I love making the crochet earrings. For a time, it was the only ear jewelry I created. I’ve progressed a lot these last few years and they are looking better than ever! Most of the crochet weights are one of a kind and rarely made twice. I also enjoy making terrarium weights, which I’ve had a line of for the last three years. I have some really great terrarium stuff in the works currently and can’t wait to reveal the pieces for Conference.


Rikki Goodwin, earrings by Uzu Organics, photo by the model.

Phoenix Revival: I have a favorite process.  I really enjoy carving and casting. Carving something out of wax and turning it into metal is pretty awesome.

Marina: Tell us about your booth display.

Uzu Organics: I try to keep it simple and organic, as I don’t want to take away from the pieces themselves. I try to use contrasting colors in the display to visually stimulate the look of the jewelry.

Phoenix Revival: I’m still a pretty small company so compact is key to avoiding hefty fees with the facility. Everything needs to break down and fit in one suitcase and has to display the jewelry nicely. This year I went with picture frames of various sizes that nested in each other for travel and had damask skull backgrounds in them. Piercers were going crazy online about olives, so I decided to have a mini olive bar at the booth. It was a great way to break the ice and get some laughs. The reactions of love or disgust were hilarious. I even had a few brave olive haters try an olive just to make sure their tastes hadn’t changed!

Marina: How was your Expo experience? Do you have anything to share with other small jewelry manufacturers that might be thinking about vending at a future APP Conference and Expo?

Earrings by Cale Belford, photo by the artist

Uzu Organics: This was my fourth year vending at Conference and this year I split my booth with someone new (Phoenix Revival Jewelry) and got a different location on the Expo floor. I think moving my booth made a huge impact on sales and people just coming over to look at my product. My booth mate and I also won Best Small Booth! It can definitely be challenging as smaller vendor, especially one with very unique pieces that are not for everyone, but I’ve just been keeping up with it and release new de- signs each year. This keeps people interested! Though, I do have a wonderful following and I couldn’t do any of this without them.

Phoenix Revival: The Expo was good. It was my third year of having a booth and it’s always a learning experience. Learning what designs people connect with and what they pass over, how the reception for different designs changes from year to year. What things I should have left at home and what things I should have made ten more of. I would suggest other small scale jewelers try similar methods of having a display that packs down into one case and to keep notes on what works and what doesn’t so you remember what you want to adjust for future expos.

Marina: Do you have any suggestions about how to handle and display your jewelry in studio displays? How about recommendations once your pieces find a forever home?

Uzu Organics: Like any specialty pieces, it is important to not be aggressive with the jewelry, especially  the crochet designs. I suggest keeping them hung on hooks or any other hanging display. There are a couple of studios who have used old picture frames to display the crochet pieces… I find that adorable! You can also just lay them on a flat surface. At home you will want to treat them similarly. Don’t just throw them in a pile with your other stuff as it may damage the threading!

Phoenix Revival: I love working with stones that have flash. Labradorite, spectrolite, moonstone and pieter- site are some favorites. At the right angles and in the right light those stones come to life and the wrong angle and light makes them look dull, so adjusting the placement under lights and height in a display case can really change how these stone present. I’d suggest playing around with the placement until you find a spot that highlights the beauty of the stones. I love to work in sterling, which tarnishes. The tarnish can be attractive or not depending on the design and keeping a polishing cloth on hand can help brighten up the silver if the details get lost over time.

At home, storing them in a way that they are protected from elements and not in a pile with other jew- elry is going to prolong their life. I am guilty of the pile method myself and I occasionally pay the price with broken jewelry.

Marina: Is there anything else you’d like to share withThe Point readership?

Uzu Organics: Thank you so much for taking an interest in my company! Find me and Uzu Organics at the APP Conference again in 2018! I’ll have some great new designs to show off. You can find my jewelry and other accessories I create on Etsy, and I’m always posting on Instagram.

Phoenix Revival: Yeah, olives rule!

Point 80: Volunteer Thank You & Josh Prentice Award

By Caitlin McDiarmid, APP Administrator

Once again the Volunteers did what they needed to in order to provide excellent customer service to our attendees, and perform the tasks  so that we could have a successful Conference. Our Al D.’s came in to the Conference pretty nervous, maybe more nervous than any other year, but the volunteer group worked it’s magic and soon they were having fun and relaxing along with their fellow volunteers. They worked hard this week and gained new insights and made new friends in the process.

Our Al D. Scholars this year were:

  • Alicia Lowe (Canada)
  • Cas Willems (Netherlands)
  • Erica Martin (Florida)
  • Jess Farrar (England)
  • Michelle Rose (Tennessee)
  • Nina Rennie (Canada)
  • Renee McKeith (Michigan)
  • Saku Penttilä (Finland)

The APP thanks LeRoi and Intrinsic Body, Inc. for contributing to the Al D. Scholarship fund; and PunkMedics for sponsoring three  full scholarships.*

Once again Piercers in our community joined together and contributed to the No Excuses scholarship fund and sent Vicente Aguilar-Ferrell, Misty Alford, Garrett Craven, Kirsten Janusewski, Rachel Hawley, and Rogan Watral to the Conference.

This year we invited back a few of the scholars from previous years who had received outstanding reviews: Dae Jedic, Jose Carlos Salgado, Logan Wright, Hika K, Zach Fitzgerald, Charlie LeBeau, Jane Absinth, Hannah Bough, Jamie Biggers, Jason Heeney, Maree Fowler, Loreia Bürgen.

Our AV crew was in the classrooms all week: Brian Moeller, Allen Falkner, Aiden Johnson, Paul Rainer, and Shana Gyure. The shifts might be short, but these folks handle one of the most pressure filled roles of the Conference and we thank them for their hard work.

Our community should thank Julie Taylor who heads up our Welcoming and Line Wrangling group – having her smiling face and her team greet the incoming attendees really sets the tone for the week.

The Super Volunteers are our most experienced volunteers. They continue to sacrifice time and energy to this event and the Association, not just at Conference, but largely year round. We try to find the best place to use their set of skills and promote the very best of them.

Our Classroom Supers:

  • Seven Wolfe
  • Ryan Clark
  • Mike Mc

Our Booth Supers:

  • Casey Hosch
  • Danny Greenwood
  • Monica Sabin
  • Mark Montgomery
  • Ken Seyler
  • Dianna Brown
  • Andru Rogge
  • John Robberson
  • Marita Wikström
  • Andre Berg
  • Jezebel Voulé

Our Registration Supers:

  • Kendra Berndt
  • Theo Sheffler
  • Anna York
  • Badur Ramji
  • Tiana McGuire
  • David Kelso
  • Marina Pecorino
  • Stephanie Hill
  • Ismael Vargas

This was our third year utilizing an onsite app—Shorty assisted this year with the development of the app, launched the Game, took Attendees’ emails, messages, and calls. Cale Belford not only managed the Mentors, but this year set up the Click game on the app. Thanks to both of these volunteers for helping our Conference transition from paper to tech and for helping the Attendees to get the most out of the app.

Our Conference Managers: Will Spencer, Sarah Wooten, and Gus Diamond help me manage the Conference onsite. They are members of the Conference Committee who participate in the planning and implementation of Conference and then work in the trenches along side all the volunteers who help make Conference what it is today.

We thank Megan Naito and Sydney Harbaugh for managing the Volunteer Underground this year – whether they are line wrangling or taking a moment to relieve a volunteer these unofficial volunteers are a critical part of Conference.

It seems like Ed Chavarria and Luis Garcia have always been by my side working in some capacity since I started with the APP. As Vendor Liaisons they take on a huge task, but as volunteers – whether a Board Member or not – they’ve always helped me and stepped in when I and the Conference needed them. Special thanks to a volunteer who often gets missed. Darren Walters has been helping out in a wide variety of roles over the years and this year wasn’t any different. Thank you Darren for bringing us our final handouts and Ronald’s Donuts daily; for always, every year— pitching in whenever and wherever asked.

Our Mentor Team worked hard this year to improve contact with their mentees and the APP wants to make sure we recognize both the organizers and those being Mentors –

  • Adam Aman
  • Alan Dumond
  • Andre Nalin
  • Becky Dill
  • Bethrah Szumski
  • Billy Wood Jr.
  • Blake Williams
  • Boge Gonzalez
  • Cale Belford
  • Cozmo Whitest
  • Dorian McCarron
  • Fernando Chavez
  • Gigi Gits
  • Gus Diamond
  • Harley Plamandon
  • Hika Keirkenupp
  • Jake Hardman
  • Jane Marie Ravelo
  • Jeremiah Goodlife
  • Johnny Segreto
  • Johnny Velez
  • Johnross Switz
  • Josh Harmon
  • Josh Parkhurst
  • Julie Taylor
  • Kelly Carvara
  • Kris Hemming
  • Mark Montgomery
  • Matte Erickson
  • Megan Naito
  • Melinda Hupy
  • Mick Swan
  • Mike Mc
  • Nathaniel Tinker
  • Pablo Perelmuter
  • Pat Pierce
  • Perry Doig
  • Rich Hartwick
  • Rivka McCormick
  • Rob Gold
  • Rob Hill
  • Ryan Archuletta
  • Ryan Clark
  • Tanner Bennett
  • Tee Miller
  • Tobias Vallone
  • Tyler McClure
  • Whitney Thompson
  • Will VonDoome

Special thanks go to Marina Pecorino and Kendra Jane. They’ve both taken on part of my former responsibilities. Not only does this benefit the Association, but for me personally their contribution has allowed me to continue working for the Association, continue working on the Conference, and continue to work with the industry that I love.

This year marks the 10th anniversary of Josh Prentice’s death. Badur from PunkMedics commented to me that to many attendees Josh was more than just a memory or an award—he was a young kid, lost before his time. This year we memorialized Josh’s passing with a special pin and a toast at the Banquet dinner.

People say that I always give the volunteer award to not just a volunteer, but to a person who has affected me personally. In that context—Seven Wolfe has shown to me that being cheerful—a happy person—can still be cool and even a little sexy.

Seven has been taking care of us all ever since he’s been coming to Conference. Whether it is the contagious smiles and good cheer that trails after him like rainbows and moonbeams or the spiritual grounding of meditation, or the energizing and physical well being of Yoga he’s been there supporting anyone and everyone.

Having him smile and wave, provide that hug, or offer you some fresh veggies instead of that greasy pizza, it’s all part of an unsaid mission—provide support, love, care, change the negative into the positive. Provide energy instead of drain

He’s become an integral part of our team and seems to have an  unending supply of energy, happiness, and laughter.

Right now in our industry, we could ALL use more people like him. Right now in this industry we should be aspiring to be more like him. Right now we in this community of Conference Attendees need to be our own form of a very special unicorn. I was deeply honored to present the 2017 Josh Prentice Volunteer Award to Seven Wolfe.

JOSH PRENTICE AWARD WINNERSHANE SEVEN WOLFE

Surrounded by 90s themed attire at this year’s Banquet Dinner, I received the Josh A. Prentice Award. Winning an award named after someone that is so loved and revered by so many is a true honor. It has inspired me to dive deeper into this work. I am elated and humbled.

I have volunteered since the first year I attended Conference. I quickly learned that volunteering was an important part of my experience. I wanted to offer my service to such an important event for professional body piercers. Being a part of the volunteer family has taught me the importance of working together, how fulfilling it is to work as a team (as cliche as it sounds), and the love I have for our volunteers. My volunteer work for the APP ranges from helping edit teachr handouts before Conference, helping pack in, managing the classroom door volunteers, offering meditation, teaching yoga, and packing up Conference.

I offer meditation and yoga as a reminder to our community to look within. I believe part of being the best piercer you can be is knowing yourself and the Magick you hold within yourself. That Magick passes from us, to the needle, into the jewelry, and finally to the person receiving the piercing. Both the piercer and the client are forever changed by the ritual.

I hold this award, though for me, many people are deserving of this award: Caitlin, the Super Volunteers, the Al D. Volunteers, all the volunteers who help make the Conference. We work together to create this awesome environment every year. We create a safe, uplifting, inspiring, educational space for all to feel welcome. Every year the APP Conference continues to grow. As we grow may we continue to learn, create, inspire, and find balance. We can count on Conference to bring us  all together, from all corners of the Earth, to learn, pass on knowledge, and even share hugs. Thank you to all the ducklings and Mama Duck for all the hard work, effort, and love. I feel grateful and I am honored to be a part of this family.

Point 80: Conference Statistics

Marina Pecorino
The Point Editor

We’ve once again broken all of our previous records; this year, our attendance climbed to 1,123!

As you can tell from  our fancy pie chart (everyone loves pie!), as always, Piercers who are not APP Members made up the largest group of conference attendees, with APP Member Piercers coming in second. This probably comes as no surprise, since the main focus of our Conference is piercing related education and outreach. That be- ing said, with over 200 non-piercing attendees, it’s obvious that our conference still has plenty to offer industry professionals working outside of the piercing room.

Our third largest group of attendees this year was comprised of Expo Exhibitors and their Vendor Workers. The Expo is one of the main attractions of Conference. This year, the Expo housed 59 different Exhibitors with a wide range of piercing related offerings; literature, merchandise, advertising services, aftercare products, and of course body jewelry.-

Attendance by Health Inspectors stayed the same as in 2016, with a total of five each year. The APP is working hard to encourage health department officials to attend Conference, but we can always use your help to bring this number up in coming years. Next time your local officials drop by for a visit, please encourage them to attend. Let them know that their conference pass will be free of charge if they book in the APP Room Block and there will be class sessions and meetings specifically designed for them.

Turning our attention to the bar graph, we can see a comparison of Full and Partial registrations for our Piercer and Non-Piercer categories. As you can see, most opt for the Full Registration option, allowing for full access to the class schedule (they still need to claim their seat in advance, of course) and a few other Full Registration perks. The Non-Member/Non-Piercer category seems to be the exception to this trend. When looking through these registrations from an administrative perspective, it’s clear that this category is mainly used by owners, counter staff, managers, and jewelry buyers who are primarily interested in marketing classes and Expo access.

We look forward to seeing plenty of returning attendees and even more new faces next year, Mark you calendars now, July 15-20, 2018. It will be our last year at Bally’s before our much anticipated move to Planet Hollywood in 2019. As our Conference continues to grow in attendance, we plan to expand our class offerings and work toward providing the most unforgettable week ever.

Point 79: BPA: Charles Gatewood

Paul King
APP Treasurer

The 2017 Body Piercing Archive exhibit at the Association of Professional Piercers annual Conference & Exposition in Las Vegas will feature the life’s work of the photographer and videographer Charles Gatewood. With over 250,000 images spanning more than 50 years, almost all of you are aware of his prolific work, whether you realize it or not.

Like most people, I was aware of his work long before I met him. It was in a bookstore in Long Beach, California in 1989, I first saw his photographs of Fakir Musafar’s O-kee-pa suspension and Jim Ward’s Sundance pull in Modern Primitives. Most are unaware that the book’s direction was largely influenced by Charles Gatewood’s contacts provided to V. Vale and Andrea Juno of ReSearch. Although I never personally identified as a “modern primitive,” the book formalized my desire for complete tattoo body coverage with coherent and graphic themes. This book’s influence cannot be overstated; it took fringe individuals and small communities and cohered them into a global movement with a far-reaching cultural impact.

Erl circa early 1990s
(original name of bridge piercing was Erl)
Photo from Paul King’s private collection

Despite the inseparable association with Modern Primitives, these powerful ritual images of Fakir and Jim Ward were not created for the book. These were documentation from an earlier important film collaboration. The film Dances Sacred and Profane (a.k.a. Bizarre Rituals) was released in 1985. Originally, the documentary was to be focused on Charles Gatewood. However, in the process of making Dances Sacred and Profane, the film became much more a documentation of and promotion for Fakir Musafar. The 2003 film Forbidden Photographs is much more representative of Gatewood’s work and story.

Tattoo Mike of NYC, 1994.
Photo from the Paul King private collection

Arguably, the photograph Charles took of Bob Dylan on tour in Sweden in 1966 was his most important. This photo showed Charles he could make money off of his photography. In fact, he continued to make many thousands of dollars in licensing from that single Dylan image over the next fifty years! The photo also opened doors. From this single image, Charles eventually became a staff photographer for Rolling Stone Magazine and made many contributions from 1972 through 1975. He photographed numerous celebrities including: Bob Dylan, David Bowie, Sly and the Family Stone, Carlos Santana, Alice Cooper, Liza Minnelli, Slade, Joan Baez, Stiv Bators and the Dead Boys, Al Green, Ella Fitzgerald, The Hermits, Helen Wheels, Quentin Crisp, Abbie Hoffman, Allen Ginsberg, William Burroughs, Jimmy Page, Robert Palmer, Brian Gysin, Nelson Rockefeller, etc. and he even landed a cover with Rod Stewart. Many of his photos reached iconic status, however, they usually did so without his name being associated with the image. In the late 1970s, Gatewood’s friendships with the tattooist Spider Webb and porn star Annie Sprinkle propelled him into the world of fetish and body art. Both of these wild personalities opened Gatewood’s eyes, further fueling his passion for sexual kink, that at that place and time very much included tattooing and body piercing. Spider and Charles had several tattoo book collaborations and even created a book proposal in the 1980s for the next big trend – “body piercing” – that was rejected by all the publishing houses as ridiculous. Of course, they were ahead of the times. It was through Annie Sprinkle that Charles met Fakir Musafar and Jim Ward.

Michaela Grey, San Francisco, 1991 (before she became APP president).
Photo from the Paul King private collection.

In 1984, Charles Gatewood published Wall Street, a book very uncharacteristic of his salacious and shocking subjects. This political photographic essay juxtaposes architecture against humans circulating the economic heart center of capitalism located in lower Manhattan. For Charles, the decade spent wandering the streets in the daytime capturing images of pedestrians and concrete angles was meditative, even therapeutic. These lone journeys offered some balance to the characters and experiences found in seedy bars, dark dungeons, and shooting galleries of the night. The wild success of the book gained Gatewood greater critical acclaim and prestigious awards as well as future book deals, exhibitions, and lecture opportunities.

In 1990, I was hanging out with Gauntlet piercers Dan Kopka and Elayne Angel at their condo in West Hollywood. One of them popped in an underground video. I still remember the grainy interview of a punk guy with a lip ring. At that time, such images were extremely rare and exciting stuff! Charles Gatewood’s videos will never be remembered for their crude production  value,  but rather for the rarity of the footage. Charles’ first piercing video, in 1986, Erotic Tattooing and Body Piercing, included a Jim Ward lecture in NYC. Upon release, Charles found there was a lucrative home video market.

Full disclosure, although I had met Charles several times in the 1990s, I was not friendly towards him. At best I was indifferent, but often I was dismissive. In my twenties, I had a very low opinion of fetish photographers. I would see my friends poorly compensated for their modeling and then their images would unknowingly get turned into greeting cards or plastered on buses as advertisement for STD treatment! I viewed fetish and body art photographers as sexual predators and economic exploiters of my community and friends.

However, during one of my countless used bookstore searches for piercing history in the early 2000s, I stumbled upon Charles Gatewood’s fine art photography book Sidetripping from 1975. My mind was blown! All my preconceptions of who Charles Gatewood was as a person and an artist were challenged. This astonishing work rivaled that of my favorite photographer Diane Arbus, except Gatewood’s book was also in collaboration with William Burroughs, a tremendous writer that greatly influenced me in my younger life! A life lesson learned, I reached out to Charles.

He invited me into his home. We had a casual friendship, I would see him maybe four to six times a year and always one on one. He’d make us tea, show me his latest art projects, we’d catch up on news. I’d dig for history lessons and he’d usually sell me something, or at least try to!

We shared the experience of having degrees in anthropology. Something that became apparent to me was at a public level his degree in anthropology was often toted as a strategy to contextualize and legitimize his work, however, his motivations and methods would be viewed as highly problematic by today’s rigorous academic standards. Charles was an experience junkie. He craved  thrills and excitement. In his own words, he was a “gonzo-journalist.” He wanted his pictures to go “POW!”

He was a passionate man, whose art and pursuits were driven by his thirst for excitement found in the new, the unusual, and the sexual. The camera lens allowed him access, power and privilege. Photography seduces many subjects and as a recognized photographer the aphrodisiac of the camera grew stronger. Rather than granting permission, models would actively seek him out!

Jack Yount, San Francisco, 1993.
Photo from the Paul King private collection

Like an old-time wheelin’ and dealin’ carnival barker, Charles drew in individuals and groups with his fantastic life stories and whispered back door offers of his photographic works at “below gallery prices.” He was a self- made and self-employed artist for 50  years! He prided himself on getting by without ever having to have a real job.

Fakir Musafar during the filming of Sundance Ceremony for Dances Sacred and Profane, Wyoming, 1982.
Photo from the Paul King private collection

Charles hoarded and thank God for that. His inability to let things go meant he had crates of magazine and newspaper clippings with jokes, photos, pop culture reviews, etc. referencing body piercing and tattooing. Although far from properly preserved, still, he had them while most of us were throwing these ephemera away. Much of the later  dated material, he simply donated to the APP/BPA.

Charles grew more familiar with my work and involvement with the APP. We agreed it would be amazing if we could put something together for the 20th anniversary of Modern Primitives. In 2009, Charles and V. Vale of Re- Search gave a well-received presentation  at  the APP Conference in Las Vegas. The breadth and quantity of his late 1980s and early 1990s video work is staggering and unique to the body piercing community. He has hundreds of hours of footage that includes Sailor Sid, Jack Yount, Ron Athey, Elayne Angel, Hanky Panky, Allen Falkner, Erl, Annie Sprinkle, Mr. Sebastian, the founders of Body Manipulations, Al D. (yes, the same guy as the APP Scholarship), Raelyn Gallina, and many  early  Gauntlet piercers, some even before they were piercers. While Charles managed to sell his entire photography archive, including personal journals, to the U.C. Berkeley Bancroft Library, their archivists turned down his video catalog. They could not mentally offset the poor production value and the cost of digitization against the historical importance of these recorded histories. Had the APP Board of Directors not stepped in, much of our shared history would have been lost to the dump!

On December 8, 2015, Charles Gatewood donated the Flash Video  collection to the APP and Body Piercing Archive (BPA). After he passed away, his estate turned over the remaining personal video archive, including interviews, recorded lectures, b-roll, unedited footage, etc. to the APP and BPA.  To date, the APP and BPA have digitized nearly 250 consumer and professional grade tapes! Charles and I discovered early on that we both had a history with alcohol and had sworn off the bottle decades before.  However, Charles suffered from chronic back pain. He turned to prescrip- tion opioids and cannabinoids for relief. He started cancelling our rendezvous. Eventually, the opioids took over contributing to a growing depression and organic dementia. I expressed my concerns to him, perhaps too little and too late.

Jim Ward doing the Sundance Ritual at Devil’s Tower, Wyoming during the filming of Dances Sacred and Profane, 1982.
Photo from the Paul King private collection

On April 8, 2016, he attempted to take his own life by jumping off his third story apartment balcony. The result was catastrophic injuries putting him in a coma and leading to his death on April 28. He did finally pass in peace, surrounded by folks that loved him. If the details of his death may seem too gruesome, please remember, this is a man that spent his entire career embracing the brutality of life. He would expect no less.

For further exploration of Charles’ career check out these retrospectives: https://www.nytimes.com/2016/05/05/arts/charles-gatewood-photographer-of-extremes-dies-at-73.html?_r=0 https://ww2.kqed.org/arts/2016/04/29/charles-gatewood-groundbreaking-photographer-dead-at-73/ Informative article, despite the author’s naiveté of body modification practices and communities: https://alum- ni.berkeley.edu/california-magazine/spring-2017-virtue-and-vice/finding-his-tribe-charles-gatewood-bancroft