Point #66: From the Editor

 IMG_3716Kim Zapata headshotBy Kimberly Zapata

A mix of curiosity, boredom, and contempt for being confined indoors during yet another Northeast snowstorm this season led me to Google (the boredom killer since the ’90s). Instead of searching for cute cat pics, the closest Buffalo Wild Wings, or what to do when your baby is teething—all, I hate to admit, are in my recent history—I simply searched “piercing.” Why not, right?  The results were interesting, to say the least.

Hits came back for Wikipedia, tips on how to obtain safe piercings, and links to local spots. Then I hit the “News” filter: “Student allegedly ran piercing operation at Chesterfield middle school,” “Oral Piercing – Is it worth the risk?,” 8 Celebrities and their Crazy Piercings,” “Tattoos, body piercings potential risks for Hepatitis C, HIV,” and the now infamous woman who “almost died” from a botched pair of cheek piercings. (More information on this story can be found here.) While I could write about each and everyone of these topics, it was the headlines themselves that struck me. Notice anything in particular? Risks? Survived? Crazy? Almost died?

These words cut through me. After spending the last five years of my life working in the industry I have loved for the last decade I thought things were different. (I had convinced myself public perception of piercing had shifted and things were getting better, especially better than “crazy.”) But what these words, and these headlines, did was serve as a reminder that while we—as an industry—have in fact come a long way, we still have a long way to go.

So what can we do to change public perception and make our industry safer for ourselves and our clients:

  • Continue to do what we do best, i.e. perform clean and safe piercing procedures using the highest-quality tools and jewelry.

  • Continue educating ourselves and others. The Association’s annual Conference is not only a great place to take classes and brush up on techniques, it is a great way to network and swap stories, ideas, and industry tips and tricks. (And the more we know, they more we can share with our clients!)

  • Share our positive experiences online. It has been said over and over again, but it warrants repeating: We—as an industry—are responsible for how others perceive us, and how others remember us. As James Weber stated in issue #57, “we define ourselves by what we write about ourselves,” and I feel the same is true of what we record and share. Post pictures of properly placed piercings and high-quality jewelry, share videos of piercing procedures, and counteract the “scare” stories with the positive ones—in The Point, your Facebook feed, on your blog, or in another industry publication.

Change takes time, and it comes from within. Sure, we can ignore these headlines—pass them off as rare exceptions and chalk them up to ignorance—but, to quote Ghandi, “if we could change ourselves, the tendencies in the world would also change.” And with continued dedication and persistence to be the best body piercers we can be, we can shift this dynamic.

For more information about sharing piercing photos and videos online, and tips on precisely how to “make safe piercing viral,” check out our Social Media page.

Point #66: Piercer Fights for Freedom of Creative Expression

Victoria-VooDoo-headshotBy Victoria Voodoo

Editor’s Note: This article is reprinted from Obscure Magazine (September 2013).

Recently, while scrolling through Facebook, I crashed head-first into an article titled “Bill to Ban Certain Tattoos, Body Piercings Passes Senate.”  Glaring back at me was a close-up of a girl covered in tattoos, piercings, and neon colored hair with the words “BANNED” stamped across the image. NO WAY, I thought.  There is no way, in this day and age, that any U.S. state could outlaw tattoos…

…right?

I was hooked.  I clicked the link.

I was not surprised to find an article barking about how an Arkansas Senator is on a mission to limit the freedom of creative expression in her state.  The majority of the reviews of this particular article were of similar tone:  Anger, frustration, fear, offense.  Certainly our freedom to be tattooed, pierced, scarred, and branded is protected under freedom of speech.  Is Big Brother watching us?

Seeing this uproar intrigued me.  I had to know more.  Without much difficulty, I found the actual senate bill in question:  “Senate Bill 387.  Arkansas Senate Bill.  To Limit Body Art Procedures.”  This bill has been sponsored by Arkansas Republican Senator, Missy Irvin.

I read it all the way through.  In its first draft, the language was rather vague.  It was not necessarily banning or outlawing anything, but the spectrum of what was being considered a “piercing” or a “piercer” (among other definitions) was very broad.  Technically, under the original language, even naval piercings would have been made illegal if the bill was passed into law.  However, there were modifications made to that vague, original language.  I wanted to know who was responsible for those modifications.

My investigation continued.  I emailed the sponsoring Senator, personally, and began my hunt for whoever may have helped modify the language of the original bill.  I found Misty Forsberg, a piercer and scarification specialist from Southtown Tattoo & Body Piercing in Fort Smith, Arkansas (the irony is not lost on me that the modifier to the bill’s language is a body modification artist).  Irvin and Forsberg responded to me and they were both extremely open and helpful in teaching me about what happened, how it started, how it ended, and everything in between.

The battle lasted about a year.  There were significant technicalities to clarify.  Both sides had to absorb vast amounts of education to be able to cohesively speak about this piece of legislature.

In an interview, Forsberg told me “essentially, the state took an interest in heavy modification and held a meeting in which [owner-operator of Anchor Tattoo and Piercing Studio in North Bryant, Arkansas] Dustin Jackson, [Association of Professional Piercers Representative] Steve Joyner, and I were asked about the modifications [the state] had heard of or found online. We did our best to educate them on the areas they asked about, and encourage them to work with our community rather than trying to write legislation for us with little to no knowledge of the subject.” ¹

With the support of the ABMA (Arkansas Body Modification Association), the APTPI (Associazione Piercers e Tatuatori Professionisti Italiani), letter writing from the community, international support, and varying levels of outrage being poured out on social media networks, the body modification artists were able to appeal to the Senator and the state government to clarify the language.

The vague language in the first draft of the bill was revised.  For any current or potential body modification clients, 2the most important thing to know about the final draft of the bill is:  NOTHING WAS MADE ILLEGAL.  “The final result was the bill that passed, SB387, defined scarification as a form of body art, but still banned subdermal implants from being performed by licensed Arkansas body artists, with no criminal penalty listed.”¹  To clarify, this means if you want a subdermal implant and you live in Arkansas, you now have to go to a licensed medical professional instead of a piercer or a tattoo artist.

The bill defining scarification as a form of body art changes nothing about its legality.  All it means is: scarification is now recognized as a “real” art form – similar to the military recognizing Paganism as a “real” religion to print on government-issued dog tags.  To me, this is a positive change.  More openly-recognized diversity in the body modification industry will help avoid situations like this in the future (for example:  naval piercings being lumped into the same category as subdermal implants).

While the limitations to who can perform subdermal implants can be considered rather disheartening, in the long run, it is not a significant loss to the industry.  “There have been several people upset to see any ban, and I agree that it isn’t entirely what we would have liked to see.  One day it may reach a point when [subdermal implants] become a licensed practice, but that day isn’t today.  For now, I feel the compromise we reached isn’t a step backward for that industry.”¹  Think about how bad the results of this battle could have been.  We live to fight another day.

Something else worth considering is the differences between the artists and the government involved.  Both parties worked together to find a mutually agreed-upon middle ground that made everybody as happy as possible.  In an email correspondence, Senator Irvin told me “Not everything you read on the Internet is truth. I completely reject the idea that I somehow am limiting freedom of expression when the tattoo artists of my state wrote this bill along with me, the Arkansas Department of Health and other legislators from both sides of the aisle.”²  Through hard work, discipline, open communication, and mutual education, these stereotypically different parties were able to find compromise.

Anybody who is tattooed, pierced, or modified has likely experienced some sort of discrimination – myself included.  Very often, being modified gives “conservative” people the impression that we are less educated or of questionable morals.  We must, however, realize that the conservatives also face a similar type of discrimination from us, the modified.  I will bet when you read “Republican Senator,” you automatically assumed that Missy Irvin would be cold-hearted, close-minded, and unmoving on her stance to ban certain types of body modification.  I will be the first to admit that I was afraid that would be true, too, but she then told me “I am proud of our work and was honored to work with a very fine group of professionals with a high code of ethics.  I have a tremendous amount of respect for them and their passion for their art, industry and clients.”²

Admit it.  That is awesome.

3The professional respect did not stop there.  Misty Forsberg expressed to me “the misinformation which has been posted online does not help our fight here, and, if anything, sets us back with that progress. More importantly, we hope that people realize the rude and disrespectful comments made toward Missy Irvin that are being encouraged do nothing but make us look like the unprofessional, unintelligent people that many state representatives might assume we are. She and our industry might not see eye to eye, but in the end she chose to work with us rather than push forward with a bill that could have potentially harmed our industry a great deal.  She shook our hands when we won, and she admitted that her view of who we are was different than when she first came into this. We could all do with being polite enough to show the same level of professional courtesy.”¹

If you learn nothing else from this article, learn that.

What scares me most, at this point, is that just because something is illegal does not mean people will stop.  If somebody wants a subdermal implant in Arkansas but does not want to pay for a “licensed medical professional” (basically a plastic surgeon), he or she might find an underground artist to perform the procedure behind closed doors, against regulations.  This poses just as much risk as getting a tattoo out of some dude’s garage.  You, the client, will be at a higher risk of exposure to infection, blood-borne diseases, and rejection of the piercing, implant, or tattoo that you might get.

Always do your research.  Always be smart.  Always go to a professional.  In my humble opinion, follow the old adage of “good tattoos ain’t cheap, and cheap tattoos ain’t good.”  It is so true in so many different contexts.  Do not sacrifice your health, your appearance, your pride, or even your wallet for something that only seems easier or cheaper.

I know reading about politics can be about as thrilling as a root canal, but it is important for all of us to stay abreast of any changes to the industry.  The best way to gain acceptance for our respective forms of creative expression is to keep ourselves educated, informed, and professional.  Just because this particular incident happened in Arkansas does not mean it cannot or will not happen in your state at some point.  In an article published by the A.P.P., Forsberg stated “oddly, the most valuable lesson I learned from this was not about legislative writing, legalities, or how to create change in my state.  It was about support – the importance of all of us supporting each other as an industry.”³

Senate Bill 387 was passed into law earlier this year.

Senator Missy Irvin and Scarification Specialist Misty Forsberg with a group of artists who helped work on SB387.  Photo credit:  Joe Phillips.  Permission to print given by Misty Forsberg.

¹ Interview with Misty Forsberg via Facebook Messenger – 08/26/2013.

² Email correspondence with Senator Missy Irvin – 08/21/2013.

³ Misty Forsberg.  “Point # 63 – Arkansas Legislation.”  The Point – The Quarterly Journal of the Association of Professional Piercers.  05/04/2013.

 

Point #66: Outreach Update 2013 – 2014

Julie Taylor headshotBy Julie Taylor

Each year, the APP Outreach committee takes on a wide range of activities, and from educating healthcare professionals to junior high school students, the committee is always looking for new ways to spread the safe piercing message. The following is an account of our 2013-14 activities:

  • We reached out to health professionals by attending the National Environmental Health Association (NEHA) and the American Public Health Association (APHA)  annual conferences.  Despite feeling a bit nervous about fitting in with health inspectors from all over the U.S.—and as far away as Australia—A.J. Goldman and Lou Quino had an overwhelmingly positive experience at the NEHA conference. (The inspectors were excited to to see the APP booth and A.J. says “they asked a lot of questions and

    Outreach committee chair Ash Mishako.
    Outreach committee chair Ash Mishako.

    genuinely seemed interested in the answers, and we handed out a lot of brochures for them to take back home!”) Nicholas Adams, Laura Jane Leonard, Brian Moeller and Jef Saunders had a similarly wonderful reception when they staffed the APP booth at the APHA conference. As Jef mentions issue #65 of The Point, “so many people stopped and said, ‘Thank you for being here.  This is definitely a great public health topic!’”

  • A PowerPoint presentation for junior high schools was created—spearheaded by Outreach committee chair Ash Misako—and has been the focus of much of our activity this year.  From autoclaves and spore tests to jewelry standards and portfolios, the PowerPoint is full of facts that will equip young people with the tools to search out safe piercing experiences—and we are proud to have created a presentation to educate students around the world.

  • We have continued to meet our goal of having articles published in each and every edition of The Point, with Courtney Jane Maxwell writing about last year’s Conference in #64 and April Berardi and myself writing about preparing for this year’s Conference in #65.

We’ve had a great year and are looking forward to facilitating our second Outreach round table at Conference this year.  I hope to see you there!

 

Point #66: The Dangers of What We Do

By now, many—if not all—of you have heard about the Birmingham, UK woman who reportedly lost four pints of blood and almost passed away after a botched pair of cheek piercings. (If you haven’t, the full details of this story can be read here.) The Association of Professional Piercers has released the following statement on the incident:

The Association of Professional Piercers (APP) is aware of a piercing incident reported on February 24, 2014 in the lifestyle/health section of the Birminghammail.co.uk website. A Birmingham, UK resident visited a local tattoo and piercing studio for a pair of cheek piercings and reportedly lost four pints of blood in about five days. The article states an artery was ruptured and required surgeons to cauterize the wound. It is important to know bleeding and swelling are among the most common symptoms of a fresh piercing, and some piercings may take several months to appear healed.

A small amount of bleeding is normal with any piercing and not usually considered life-threatening or a cause for alarm. Some health conditions and medications may influence the amount of bleeding a piercee may have. This particular client’s situation required medical attention and we hope she recovers quickly. Cheek piercings have special anatomical considerations and elevated risk which is evident in this client’s experience. Further, the use of a light is not always effective for mapping blood vessels in such thick tissue.

The APP encourages piercees to educate themselves with what to look for when choosing a studio to ensure the piercer is properly trained and experienced for the piercing they desire, offers jewelry made of an appropriate material and finish, and performs piercings in a safe and aseptic manner. To learn more about picking a piercer and appropriate jewelry standards for initial piercings please visit the APP’s website.

The Association of Professional Piercers is an international non-profit organization dedicated to the dissemination of vital health and safety information about body piercing to piercers, health care professionals, legislators, and the general public.

 

SafePiercing inbox: where your tip goes

Anonymous asked:

Not trying to be rude, but why should I tip a piercer when piercings cost so much? I feel like the jewelry and equipment don’t cost much and so they should profit from it a lot? Is it necessary because not a lot of people go to get piercings?

That’s a fair question.

First, you do not have to tip your piercer. We do not expect it, but it is appreciated when it does happen.

But you know I’ve got to break down the other part of your question. So, here goes. Continue reading

Point #65: The Latin-American Body Piercing Association (LBP)

LBP LogoBy the Latin American Body Piercing Association

Editor’s note: The history and growth of the APP’s outreach work in Mexico has been included in The Point many times before. Alicia Cardenas’ initial outreach in December of 2003, when she was the APP’s International Liaison, was reported in The Point #28. The APP seminars in Mexico were reported on in 2006 (#35), 2007 (#42), 2008 (#45), 2009 (#50), and 2010 (#54), and Danny Yerna organized the last seminars sponsored by the APP in 2012. This year marks the first year that the seminars were put on independently of the APP, by the newly-formed Latin American Body Piercing Association.

The history and mission of the LBP

The Latin-American Body Piercing Association (LBP) is a recently-formed non-profit association based in Mexico.

The decision to create the LBP was made by the attendees of the APP’s 2012 educational seminars LBP_boardin Mexico, when a meeting was held where the majority voted in favor of creating this association, and also voted on who should be on the first board of directors.

The board of the LBP is comprised of seven body piercers from Mexico. Many have been piercing for ten or fifteen years; most are shop owners in Mexico and all are well known by the piercing community.

The LBP’s board of directors and founding members are:

  • Danny Yerna, President (Wakantanka)
  • Ana Paula Escalante, Secretary (Tonatiuh and Quetzalli)
  • Axayacatl Nochipa, Treasurer (Studio 184)
  • Charly Pastrana (Tercer Ojo Krew)
  • Karlin Murillo (Nomadas)
  • Memo Reyes (Tercer Ojo Krew)
  • Mario Oliva (Busterzone)

Later, Mauricio Torres (Extigma and BioMetal) was added as head of South American Outreach.

LBP_group shotThe mission (and vision) of the LBP is to educate and inform piercers and the public about the techniques, materials, safety, and health practices related to body piercing, to raise the standards, while respecting our differences. At the same time to help the Latin American community build stronger bonds in a respectful and relaxed environment, and to be a link between Spanish-speaking piercers with what is happening in the world.

What has been accomplished so far in Mexico

In 2001, there was a meeting with legislators in Mexico City. Two of our current LBP board members (Danny and Ana Paula) attended and spoke about what we were doing and what laws were needed. Four tattoo artists, two doctors and two legislators also attended.  This was a historic event for the body piercing industry in the country. After this meeting, the first draft was made of a law covering tattoos, cosmetic tattoos, and body piercings.

In 2005, the first body art law in Mexico became official: no tattooing or piercing of minors!

In 2006, the APP’s first educational seminars were held in Mexico City, attended by many piercers from all through Mexico,  APP Members from the U.S., and several Mexican public health officials.

Since this time, we have been collaborating with health officials and giving suggestions on the laws, LBP_jewelrywhich were being drafted based on APP guidelines. Our suggestions were approved (but unfortunately not all were applied appropriately), but by 2012 we finally had a law on piercing and tattooing (and cosmetic tattooing).

The law states that body art practitioners must:

  • Have proof of first aid training
  • Have a procedure manual
  • Be vaccinated for tetanus and hepatitis B
  • Use approved release forms
  • Distribute basic aftercare sheets to clients
  • Use new, sterile, and disposable needles and not a piercing gun
  • Use quality jewelry and/or ink
  • Refrain from using anesthetics
  • Use gloves
  • Use mouth covers
  • Use an autoclave or other sterilizers
  • Use equipment that ensures aseptic techniques and a safe level of hygiene
  • Have access to running water
  • Have a separate room for procedures
  • Use a separate room for disinfection and sterilization of tools
  • Have a restroom
  • Have a license for the shop
  • Have a practitioner license

The law also prohibits the use of piercing guns in Mexico! And, for the first time, we will also start to get inspections from health officials.

LBP_ed and annaWhile we were working towards this legislation, we were also making efforts in education. The APP’s Mexican Educational Seminars were held in 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, and 2012, with attendees from over 25 States in Mexico in addition to piercers from Argentina, Costa Rica, Chile, Peru and Spain.

We have also continued to speak to health officials, to give feedback about the new laws, and to keep them informed about forming the association. Some of our suggestions were approved almost immediately, and they let us know that once we were legally consolidated we could work towards fine-tuning the law. On May 21, 2013, we officially became a legal association, the Asociación Latinoamericana de Body Piercing, A.C.

The LBP now

The LBP is currently working on:

  • Outreach to the piercing community
  • Getting the word out about the LBP
  • Working on press kits and promotional items
  • The 2014 Seminars (which will be held on November 4 to 7 in Mexico City)
  • Working to get the LBP accepted as an Associate Corporate Member of the APP
  • Working closely with with health officials to fine-tune the current laws in Mexico into comprehensive and effective legislation
  • Raising the standards of body piercing in Latin America

As you can see, we have been working on this for a while. Much has happened, and it’s just the start! We wish to keep sharing many achievements and growth. On behalf of the LBP Board Members, to the APP for their support and inspiration, and to our international body piercing brothers and sisters: Thank you.

Point #65: How Are You Preparing for Conference?

April Berardi headshotJulie Taylor headshotBy April Berardi and Julie Taylor

Let’s face it: Conference can be expensive and time-consuming. But if money is tight, planning ahead can save you hundreds of dollars, from registration to hotel booking and flights.

Get Time Off

Talk with your employer about time off now.  Depending on how integral you are to your operation, your boss—and the others who work with you—will want to know as soon as possible that you plan to be gone for a  week. This will also give you time to explain the benefits of the idea if they don’t initially like it.  If you have a boss that is leery to let you go ask if you can cover your shift with a guest piercer and/or do a promotion when you get back.

If you are a studio owner, this may finally be time to train someone to at least work your front desk. This person doesn’t need to be a piercer, but a smiling friend who will hand out a coupon and explain that you are attending a conference with some of the world’s top piercers in order to provide the best possible piercing experience.

In fact, some studios even use this time for a complete shut down, and all of their piercers head to Conference, while their tattoo artists hold down the fort, or take a week’s vacation. Either way, work with your boss to create a solution that works best for you and your studio.

Save, Save, Save

Things to do before you go:

  • Save all of your tips.  If your studio has a tip jar you might put a sign about Conference near it, to let people know their tips are going to a great cause.

  • Save all of your change.

  • Save a certain amount per week/per paycheck.

  • Ask your employer to hold a portion of your paycheck for you.

  • Ask anyone who might give you a birthday or other gift to instead contribute to your Conference fund.

Your accommodations:

  • Bally’s—the hotel where the Conference is located—offers early bird discounts on rooms. Point65-Bally'sEarly bird rates start at $64/night and can be booked here. And keep in mind: You do not need to pay for your room when you reserve it, though you do need a credit card.

  • Find a roommate, or two or three; that will really get the cost down!

  • If you choose to stay in another hotel be sure to factor in the cost of transportation, as well as the time you will spend traveling back and forth.  (Whatever mode of transportation you choose, you’ll be spending precious Vegas time away from Conference if you don’t stay at Bally’s.)

On travel:

  • Watch discount sites, like fly.com and Kayak, to search a number of travel sites at once; watch for sales, promotions, and discounts.

  • Roadtrip!  If you live close enough, join up with other attendees and split the costs of a road trip.

While In Vegas

Eating:

  • Vons.com delivers groceries to Bally’s, which saves a lot on meals, snacks and drinks. It’s also handy to have food in your room when you don’t have time to go to a restaurant between the classes you’ve chosen to take. (And last year Vons was offering free delivery on your first order!)
  • Point65-Las VegasFind a friend (or make a new friend) and carpool/split a cab to one of many local grocery stores.

  • Bally’s also has on-site dining in a wide price range, from pizza and hotdogs to sushi and high-end restaurants.  The hotel keeps an updated list of restaurants on their website.

Entertainment:

  • Many sites, like Vegas.com, offer deals on shows you may want to take in while you are in Sin City, but keep in mind cabs are pricey, running $15-30 from the airport. (Note: The airport shuttle will take you right to Bally’s and runs 24/7 for a cost of $7.)

Conference and Classes:

  • Most classes range from $40-60, but if you are planning to take in a lot of classes (and the Expo) you can save by purchasing a full Conference package, which allows you to take unlimited classes and workshops.  A full conference package costs $400 until May 17, 2014 and then the price goes up by $100.  Register early and save!  You can also save $50 on your full-conference fee if you’re an APP member, and another $50 if you are coming from a country other than the US.

Scholarships

The Al D. scholarship applications are due by March 1, and the application period will open on January 1, 2014.  These scholarships provide full conference fee and shared accommodations for their recipients. The Al D. scholarships  are available to apprentices and piercers.  Among other requirements, applicants must provide an essay and are responsible for their own transportation to and from conference.  Application forms for the Al D. scholarship may be obtained by emailing info@safepiercing.org after November 28, 2013.

Last year an informal group of generous piercers pooled their resources and provided additional scholarships to a number of piercers in need.  A great way to find out more about this type of scholarship is to join the APP 2014 Conference Facebook page.

Even if you are not interested in applying for a scholarship we encourage you to join the APP 2014 Conference Facebook page. While it’s not an official APP page, it is a great place to meet people pre-Conference (and possibly find a roommate), and it will be full of suggestions for making the most of your week.  We hope to meet you there!

Point #65: A Client’s Guide to Jewelry Sizing

James Weber headshotBy James Weber
Infinite Body Piercing

Editor’s note: This article was written with clients considering stretching in mind, and was reprinted with permission from infinitebody.com.

When stretching a piercing from one size to the next, it’s obviously important to select the correct size jewelry. But when choosing what to buy, it’s important to know how body jewelry is measured.

The first thing to realize is that while the thickness of jewelry is measured in diameter, what your body feels is circumference. An excellent overview of this is included in issue #2 of Piercing Fans International Quarterly. (Thanks to Jim Ward, you can download the article here.)

The second is this: body jewelry is measured in several different systems, depending on its size and country of origin. This means there are slight deviations in size with different jewelry types. While slight variances in smaller sizes this shouldn’t affect your ability to stretch too much, once you hit larger sizes this can make a big difference.

Here’s an overview of the different systems of measurement:

Brown and Sharpe (American Wire Gauge System)

Body jewelry manufactured in the United States is typically measured in the American Wire Gauge (AWG) System, also called the Brown and Sharpe measuring system. This wire gauge system has been used since 1857 (predominantly in the United States and Canada) for measuring the diameters of round, solid, and nonferrous (not iron-based alloys) electrical conducting wire. This system is used for measuring the thickness of precious metals in the U.S. and was first used for making body jewelry by Jim Ward in the early years of The Gauntlet. He explains the choice in his book, Running the Gauntlet.

The standard gauge system used for steel wire is different from the Brown & Sharpe gauge system used for gold and silver. For the sake of consistency and to eliminate the necessity for more sizes of piercing needles, I felt it was necessary to have all the stainless steel wire custom produced to corresponding thicknesses.

To anyone who is not familiar with the Brown and Sharpe system it may not make much sense. AsPoint65-sizing the gauge number decreases, the thickness of the wire increases. In other words: 18 gauge is thinner than 16 gauge, which in turn is thinner than 14 gauge. This is because the number represents the number of operations used to produce a given gauge of wire, or the number of times a metal ingot must be pulled through a drawing die to make it smaller. Thinner wire requires more passes than thicker wire, hence the higher number for thinner material. Ever wondered why body jewelry gets thinner as the gauge number gets higher? This is the reason. Thus 2-gauge wire would need two passes through the die, 22-gauge will will need significantly more. Make sense?

Imperial Units (or Customary Units)

In the United States, we’ve fought hard against the adoption of the metric system. Unlike most of the rest of the world we still use a structure based on the imperial system, defined by the British Weights and Measures Act of 1824. When body jewelry sizes get larger than 00 gauge (or sometimes 000 gauge) it is too large to measure with a Brown and Sharpe measurement, and under the imperial system is typically measured in inches and/or fractions thereof: ½, 9/16,  ⅝, etc. Plugs for stretching manufactured in the U.S. are most commonly available in increments of 1/8 (or sometimes 1/16) of an inch.

The Metric System

Based on the system introduced in France in 1799, the metric system (or “SI” or the “International System of Units”; in French the “Système international d’unités”) is the official system of

Countries not using the metric system. (Courtesy of Wikimedia.)
Countries not using the metric system. (Courtesy of Wikimedia.)

measurement in almost every country in the world—with the United States being a notable exception. (Currently, the United States, Liberia, and Myanmar are the only countries to not have officially adopted the metric system.)  Unlike the imperial system, the metric system uses interrelated base units and a standard set of prefixes in powers of ten. The system of measurement we’re concerned with for body jewelry is the one for length: meters, with the smaller division being centimeters and millimeters.

Why is this important?

When shopping for the right-sized jewelry, at my studio we often advise our clients to think of it like buying shoes: Proper size is important, and no matter how much you want it, jewelry that doesn’t fit will not work. Nowhere is this more true than when selecting jewelry with which to stretch your piercing. Jewelry that is too small is a waste of money, while jewelry that is too large can damage your piercing.

But when I buy a piece of jewelry, the size is the size, isn’t it? The short answer is: not always.

 Where the jewelry is made matters. For example, when you buy a plug that is sized at ½”, a U.S.-produced plug will, more likely than not, be exactly ½” (or 12.7mm), where one made elsewhere will most likely be 12mm (or maybe 12.5mm). Often, these sizes line up as a close approximation to each other—but not always. For example: If you’re buying 2-gauge glass plugs they will most likely be made from 6mm stock. (True 2 gauge is approximately 6.5mm.) Going up to 0g will mean jumping to 8.25mm, while many companies who sell jewelry manufactured in metric sizes will offer 7mm plugs—often sold as 1 gauge plugs—which will be a much more reasonable next size.

And remember: Your jewelry is measured by diameter, while your body feels the circumference. Jewelry measured in the Brown and Sharpe (gauge) system or imperial units (inches) can be especially problematic, as circumference measurements are often not incrementally consistent. This means while one size to the next may feel easy, while the next stretch can be incredibly difficult.

Confused? It can be daunting, but the point to take away is this: Educate yourself and pay attention to the size of the jewelry you are buying. When buying retail jewelry, find out where the jewelry is manufactured—or at the very least have them take calipers to the piece and tell you exactly what size you’ll be purchasing. Understand how the different sizing systems measure what you are buying; this can make the difference between buying jewelry that is too close to what you are currently wearing, jewelry too large, or something that is the perfect size. Just like the wrong-sized shoes can turn a easy walk through the city to a crippling ordeal, the correctly sized jewelry can be the difference between a happy piercing and an angry one.

Point #65: Changing Myself While Changing Others

Jezebel Voule headshotBy Jezebel Voulé
TRX

What has been your favorite piercing moment? It is a question that has haunted me since the first time I was asked. An echo of this makes the voice in my head always think “maybe this piercing will be the one that defines my piercing career.” Several people have shared their defining moments with me: some of these turning points involved meeting their piercing idol while, for others, it was defined by where they worked, who they worked with (or worked on), and, in some cases, a paycheck. The ways people have been affected by their careers are as unique as the individuals who had the experiences.

Most days there are no moments that change me, or at least affect me in a drastic way. I take a client in, bond with them and then let them go, hoping that we connected enough for them to return to me for their next piercing experience—or, better yet, remember my name to bring me more clients to bond with and release.

However, when asked about my favorite moment there is one I always relive. An older lady, at least seventy years old, came in to get her earlobe pierced. We took a moment chatting but as I started to get set up for the piercing she stopped me. “I need you to know that I have Hep C. I understand if you can’t pierce me.” After asking if she had talked to her physician about getting a piercing I smiled and said “Thank you for telling me but I have no problem piercing you. I take many precautions so that both my safety and yours are taken care of.” She was shocked that I didn’t respond like she had expected. She thought I would react poorly and then proceed to treat her as a leper, sending her on her way. Both she and her wife were overcome with joy. It was something she had wanted to do for a long time but had been afraid to get because she would have to expose a secret that had given her so many other bad experiences. (I later found out how much that experience changed her perception of herself. She, for a moment, felt like she was human rather than a disease and not worth common decency. I had felt like I had changed the world, and for her I had.)

Recently another experience left the same type of lasting impression on me. While at Omega Red Studios a man came in asking questions about his daughter. She had cancer and, as a result, had made a “bucket list.” On that list was a lip piercing. He wanted to help her fulfill her wishes and asked if I would be willing to perform such a task on her. I had replied that I would be willing, after I knew it was okay with her doctor. The next day he came back with a handwritten note. Skeptical that the doctor was in on this idea I Google searched the doctor and found out everything I could about not only her but the entire hospital. I talked to lawyers, her doctors, and parents about what I expected, what they should expect, and the young girl’s expectations. I did not hold back on making demands on what I would need to make a safe and positive environment for her. Many of them were personal things to increase my comfort. After all, my safety is just as important as hers.

It took three days to come to an agreement on piercing her. After speaking with the doctor we decided the nostril would be a more acceptable piercing rather than the lip. I learned that the reason there was so much passion behind her parents getting this one thing done was because she had just received a dire prognosis. The likelihood that she would be alive long enough to even see her piercing heal was slim. She had fifteen things that she wanted to do before she died. Her parents chose this task, as it was most obtainable, and came in search of me. Completing one of her bucket list tasks was important in helping her fight the feeling that all was lost for this fourteen year old whose life was on a count down. The before and after effect on her life was immediate. She went from a child who looked and acted sickly to a young girl who wanted to walk around with her father as she felt a kind of rejuvenation.

***

These moments have stuck with me, as it has been these moments that have pushed me to realize how much I could help the world just with a tiny prick of my needle. Sometimes a navel piercing is more than a belly adornment, it is a story—a celebration—of a woman reclaiming her body. It amazes me how much a person can be changed from something that, for me, is just a way of life: the impact of one life to another. Everyone has different reasons for loving their job. So please take a moment and relish yours.