Posts tagged safe piercing

Point 82: The Golden Age of Piercing in Australia

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AN INTROSPECTIVE NARRATIVE OF FEMALE PIERCERS DOWN UNDER

By Eloise Ridgewell & Kyla Scrivener

Australia; a land stretching over 7.6 million square kilometres, famous for its blistering summers, beautiful beaches and wildlife that will kill you in every awful way conceivable. Born from this unique environment comes a well-known character, the true blue Aussie larrikin; a cultural icon who is tough, defiant, loud and enjoys poking fun at people. Although affectionately embraced by the international community and Australians alike, this stereotype has its pitfalls when trying to establish one’s identity on an international, professional scale. The need to be loud, tough, boisterous and outrageous is often expected of those from Down Under and can unfortunately take precedence over the individual identity. While this persona definitely has its place in the Australian piercing community, there is a hive of quiet activity migrating from this previously dominating attitude and branching into a more delicate, refined, sophisticated and feminine creation. To understand how this evolution started to come about, we must first reflect on our origins of how Australian piercing began.

We speak with Bella van Nes of Piercing HQ, the continent’s original female piercer, whose piercing career started over 28 years ago in Australia’s first piercing studio, then located above a small adult bookstore in Melbourne:

“[In the beginning] we saw a range of colourful characters. Folks didn’t care that the jewellery was plain; all they cared about was how it was going to make their sex life better. Fast forward to the navel piercing boom in the mid ‘90s and the need for prettier decorative jewellery styles. This was the beginning of having a piercing done for “the look” instead of “the feel” and when my need for more female staff became apparent; who were happy to spend time putting jewellery combinations together for clients and pouring over wonderful jewellery catalogues with them.”

This motivation for aesthetics over sensation sparked a ferocious growth for the Australian piercing community, jewellery manufacturers and women’s place in the industry.

The Australian piercing industry has evolved and expanded greatly in those 28 years to become what we see today. As of 2018, there are only 10 studios nation-wide operating at a standard internationally recognised as high end or reputable. Outside of that minority, there are over 400 piercing-related franchise businesses and innumerable tattoo studios and beauty salons offering piercing services. Considering there are a minimum of three to five piercers in each franchise, the ratio of franchise to studio piercers becomes greatly skewed. Due to this imbalance, a severe congestion is being seen, with a saturation of lower quality jewellery and more laxed standards becoming regarded as the norm. Another more intriguing outcome of the rise of franchise piercing has been the influx of female piercers being offered full time work in these ‘retail’ positions in precedence over male piercers for similar job opportunities.

In Australia, the retail and franchise industry is the third largest employer of women, after healthcare and education; this merging of retail franchises and piercing has opened the door for more women to be offered piercing positions than ever before. Prior to this pairing, the Australian piercing scene was almost entirely male dominated and with little to no job security, while franchises played a role in legitimising this career path by paying piercers a retail wage and steady employment. Although perhaps not an ideal introduction to the industry, joining a franchised brand soon became a way to get your foot in the door as an apprentice or employee at a reputable studio. From these humble beginnings, female piercers were now in a position to step forward and put their foot on the career ladder within these retail chains and begin to network with high end studios and manufacturers like never before. Synonymous with this saturation of female piercers nationally came the increased desire for ornate, couture, and more exclusive lines of jewellery, directly influenced by the world’s creative stylists; gone were the plain steel captive  bead ring haydays of the ‘90s! On the runways of high end fashion influencers like House of Malakai, Alexander McQueen, Dior, and most noticeably Givenchy, we were seeing luxuriously stylised adornments and  faux-piercings that soon proved to be ground-breaking in establishing the market for high end body jewellery in a modern Australian setting. Social and visual media greatly contributed in globalising these international piercing and jewellery trends, also allowing clients on our shores to make reference to the work of international industry members. It also increased a demand for unique pieces sculpted from precious metals and stones that had never before been seen here on such a scale or with such diversity.

This mainstreaming of elegance in piercing began to widen the original Australian piercee demographic; the demand for opulent, more feminine jewellery options lead to a shift in what clients expected to experience within a piercing studio, and their attitude towards the practitioners providing their services. Piercers collectively started hearing fewer statements about “putting a hole in” or “just being a piercer,” and were now being trusted to provide more of an artistic and immersive approach to the client’s overall aesthetic and desires. This newfound expectation of a piercer’s artistic integrity to craft an ensemble designed to accentuate and flatter became more desirable than the previously normalised pierce-and-go experience, which gave rise to an opportunity for a deeper, more personal collaboration and interaction between piercer and piercee. This noticeable atmospheric softening and an openness to more emotive experiences is moving further away from the masculine stoic stereotype. Allowing for a synergy that can be a wholly rewarding, cathartic contact for both client and piercer by creating a positive, safe space to process the potentially serious emotions and events that brings patrons into our work spaces.

Introspectively, from our own personal experiences as younger women growing up in more rural Australia, the options presented for adult life are largely centered around hairdressing, beauty therapy, or child-rearing. To be a woman not actively pursuing those ambitions is to be an outlier from the norm of femininity, and as such, implies harshness, bullishness, and almost a certain masculinity. In addition, an interest or participation in an already taboo lifestyle, such as body art, modification, or the kink scene, and this misconception about who you are and your attitude as a woman is reinforced greatly in the eyes of others.

Eloise Ridgewell

ELOISE RIDGEWELL of The Piercing Urge, Melbourne, VIC:

My interest in the industry as  a spectator was peaked in early adolescence by an urge for rebellion and a desire to be abrasive and obtuse. I grew up in a very conservative household by most standards,  and  saw body piercing as an outlet, so expressed my aggression by getting—wait for it—an awfully, AWFULLY executed 16ga septum piercing—somebody call Korn; their freak got off the leash. Retrospectively, that traumatic first piercing experience in the typical rough, dingy, bikeresque tattoo studio as a naive girl served as the catalyst that opened my eyes to the prospect of stepping into the industry as a practitioner, rather than purely an enthusiast. I entered the industry young, angry, and always on the defensive, but soon realised that I didn’t want to give my clientele the same experience that I had received, which was largely regarded as the norm for the area I lived and worked in at the time.

Soon enough, the scary outfits turned into soft colours and floral skirts, and the “fuck you” attitude softened into something much more truthful and authentic to who I am. Around this time, I was lucky enough to connect with some incredibly strong female piercers on the Australasian scene, Cherry Sutherland and Kylie Garth, and was offered a position with one of the most established high end studios in the country, The Piercing Urge, which has been in operation in Melbourne since 1991. I am eternally grateful to my employer and owner of The Piercing Urge, Peter Sheringham, for providing me with the platform, support and opportunity to be able to step forward in this industry, as well as his acceptance of a more feminine touch in such a well-established kink-originated studio, in order to become inclusive and welcoming to a broader demographic.

Attending the Trauma Informed Modification and Grounding class, as well as taking part in the Women of Piercing roundtable discussion during the 2017 APP Conference really ignited a spark in terms of what kind of impact I wanted to have on my clients during my short amount of time with them. Being trusted by our clients, whether it be their faith in our professionalism, technical abilities, eye for design, or allowing us to assist in the reclamation of their body is an incredibly powerful thing, that I truly feel grateful for every single day. Becoming more in touch with my own femininity and softness has helped my work and client interactions infinitely; I’m noticing an overwhelmingly positive and fulfilling encounter for both parties in comparison to the more typical Aussie piercing attitude of “have a teaspoon of cement and harden up”. We as piercers are often therapists, healers, personal life coaches, cheerleaders, and caregivers, and I sought to create an inclusive, welcoming space, where people could feel free from the quick judgements and abrupt bedside manner they may have been used to; where they could not only receive a traditional in and-out piercing service, but also something more holistic and cathartic should they require that.

This newfound placidity has also opened many doors professionally,  allowing  me to connect with a much wider spectrum of piercing community members. Being able to attend my first APP Conference and meet the community’s strong female figures and industry’s foremothers, including Alicia Cardenas, Bethrah Szumski, and Kendra Jane (who is also the reason I am sitting here writing this article) was a profoundly humbling and inspiring experience. Brainstorming with Kylie Garth and Suzanne Hallett and birthing the concept for a now hugely successful industry group for women, gender non-conforming people, and trans folk, then forging meaningful connections with the beautiful people that are part of it has been one of the single most rewarding encounters of my life. There’s a real feeling of sisterhood, inclusivity and empowerment brewing both in our industry and societally at the moment, and I am so thankful to be a part of it.

Kyla Scrivener

Kyla Scrivener of Sacred Art, Newcastle, NSW and APP Member:

I experienced one of the most powerful eureka moments of my life during the 2017 APP Conference. The incredibly well spoken John Johnson spoke of the “Life Piercer”. To paraphrase, he explained that we take the lessons our craft teaches which have an impact on our life forever. We see the world through a piercer’s eyes no matter where we are, inspiring the people who continue to be a piercer long after they have retired the needle. I have learnt some of my most important life lessons from this incredible art form, but none more than the ability to embrace my femininity and embrace my womanhood. The irony that I needed to learn this from men still makes me laugh quietly at the weird twists this universe throws our way.

  I naturally fell into piercing at a time where to me it was still a way to ruffle society’s feathers. If it was large, impressive, shocking, or garish then I wanted it pierced and I wanted it as offensive as possible because to me that was tough and that’s all I knew. Fast forward to 2015 when I was offered a position at Sacred Art in Newcastle, New South Wales where APP Member Mick Swan ran things a little differently to what  I was used to. Mick had created an atmosphere that was calm, gentle, inviting, and boutique. His prime focus was to establish an environment where his mother and sister could visit and feel safe and comfortable. The confronting mohawk, black metal band shirts, and obnoxious choice in piercing jewellery that once comforted me made no sense in my new found environment. The demographic I was now piercing were women between the ages of 18—45, from a middle to high socio-economic demographic, who wanted delicate gold ends with precious stones.

The confronting attitude and attire had to go, because selling diamonds and presenting myself this way was an uphill battle. This small change pushed me to soften my look and find a more female friendly identity. With mostly female clients, I was finding that I was constantly surrounded by these women, who all had stories to tell and that room would become a safe confession of catharsis, adornment, and human connection that I had never experienced before. Then the emotional bomb of the incredible “Modify Your Story” by Jaymes Lombardi hit me; his words of you being a guide to these people and that “everything you do, revolves around the stories we tell” resonate with me to this day. This is the third male in this story to make me realise that I was put on this earth to create, heal, celebrate, and mentor. These people wanted to create a moment, to heal or celebrate that memory or chapter in their life and to be guided through it in the nicest and safest way possible. To be able to be this person, I had to tap into that innate feminine side of myself because my masculine side just could not connect. These tiny changes planted seeds that now allowed me to really honour the clients I was so lucky to be surrounded by and finally allowed me the space to embrace that side of myself which never felt comfortable before.

While the metaphorical cauldron of a feminine energy is bubbling over internally, Australia is starting to see an awakening in a more soft-handed and delicate approach to piercing as a result. This newly allowed artistic freedom presents an opportunity to cultivate an immersive atmosphere of safety and beauty by utilising scent, sound, and design both personally and in the aesthetics of your studio to appeal to your client base. By doing this, two high end studios can create an entirely unique experience for their clientele, even though they may well provide the exact same services with the exact same jewellery. Clients are also becoming much more involved in the process of seeking out artists who compliment their jewellery and design choices, like they would if they were researching a particular style of tattooing. You no longer go to a piercer just to get a piercing, but rather for an overall experience, and our attitudes must reflect this.

Although the industry at large is becoming more multi-faceted, progressive, and gender-diverse than ever, the final shifts of societal norms still need to occur to be completely inclusive nationwide. The distribution of piercing positions in terms of binary gender is relatively even in Australia, however the societal norm of what is acceptable and expected from each role is not. Gloria Steinem quotes, “women are always saying, ‘we can do anything that men can do’ but men should be saying, ‘we can do anything that women can do.’” The final frontiers of Australian piercing need to see the barriers of stereotypical masculinity receding so that more male piercers are able to connect on a deep and interpersonal level also without the fear of not being a ‘bloke’. As Australian writer and comedian Patrick Marlborough quotes,“our national image of manliness is obsolete, and it’s killing us”. With this feminine piercing renaissance at its peak, hopefully we will see more men allowed to be able to shed the weight of toxic masculinity and embrace their feminine side within the industry, and encourage more women to be present in the dialogue without feeling the need to be loud or aggressive to be heard.

“Be soft for the sake of every hard heart; show them with every move of your body that gentle does not mean weak.”—Emma Bleker

Point 82: Female Guest Artists – Taryn Dahlgren

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Taryn Dahlgren

When I made the decision to quit my studio, pack up my life into a friend’s closet, and hit the road to travel and pierce, I was terrified. Probably more terrified than I’ve ever been in my life about anything. But I was coming up on my eighth year of piercing and I figured now was the time to do what I always wanted to do, and that was to see the world. Two adventure-filled years later, here I am, a little more wise about life, piercing in general, and a whole hell of a lot happier. I’ve also found a niche with other traveling piercers who feel the same way I do about the whole thing. It’s a rad life. I was asked a good question recently though and that was “why do you think there are so few female traveling piercers?” I won’t lie. At first, my mind went blank. I felt like there were so many of us. But then I realized that really, we are few and far between and that got me to thinking. Why?

Well, I racked my brain trying to figure it out. I came up with some negatives of course. Women shouldn’t travel alone because it’s scary (heads up, it’s not). Women are matriarchs of their households and can’t be gone for long, etc. And then it hit me out of nowhere.

Female piercers are  too  busy  holding  it down in this industry to be traveling piercers. Now, more than ever, there are so many amazing, talented ladies who are running the show! There are some incredible studios popping up all over the place that are owned and/or run by badass women. Women who are holding their noses to the grindstone with a vengeance, sometimes juggling a family in there too, and unfortunately, that doesn’t leave much time for traveling to do guest spots.

But is that really a bad thing? Absolutely not. Watching my female friends and peers rock this industry down to its core is inspiring on a whole other level. So, while we have a bunch of different angles to consider (ha, angles. See what I did there?), we should focus on the fact that we’ve got some fierce women piercers who are changing the face of who we are and what we do; they’re simply too busy to travel. For now.

Point 82: Female Guest Artists – Paige E. Toth

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Paige E. Toth

Guest spotting is a great way to enhance your career. Traveling within your own state, out of state, and sometimes even out of country can really put some things in perspective. You are given the ability to see how other studios work, how clients from different areas respond, and to network with your colleagues and peers. It’s not  uncommon to scroll through your social media and see multiple people announce their upcoming dates and numerous studios. However, whether you’ve noticed it or not, it’s somewhat rare to see a woman, or a non-male, piercer pop up on the circuit.

The first thing that most often pops into someone’s head when it comes to the topic of traveling piercers is a numbers game. Is there really such a large gap in the number of male and non-male piercers in our industry that it in turn effects the ratio of guest piercers? It’s no secret that this industry is still extremely male dominated, regardless of the amount of male versus non-male piercers. With the help of social media groups focused on booking guest spots it’s very clear to see that there are more men putting themselves out there to travel to other studios. It’s also very clear to see that a large amount of people on the guest spot circuit are individuals with a lot of notoriety and experience guest spotting. That leaves the question of are women and non-male piercers just not as interested in guest spotting, is it a question of experience, friendships, or is it something deeper?

Over the last couple of years the industry has seen a vast amount of information come forward about predatory behaviour or other types of harassment. The small amount of what has made it to the public eye of the industry is nothing when compared to the shared experiences between colleagues and peers behind the safety of closed doors. With all of this comes a real fear for many of us. We’ve all heard stories of women and other individuals instinctually placing their car keys between their knuckles while walking down the road, maybe paired with the finger on the trigger of the pepper spray in the pocket of their jacket. When it comes to guest spotting, it can be scary. Often times you’re traveling alone, not really knowing the people you’re working with, not really knowing the people who’s couch you’re sleeping on. If you flew to your guest spot you can be without a car or an escape route if things go south and you start to feel uncomfortable or in danger. For some this just isn’t a risk they are willing to take.

There’s no direct answer as to why the ratio of male and non-male guest piercers is so skewed in one direction. The only thing we can do is realize and understand the potential reasons and continue to work to make this industry as inclusive and safe as possible. There are an immeasurable amount of amazing individuals in this industry that far outweigh the bad apples. With awareness, support, and the sharing of information we can create the industry we want, and the industry we deserve.

Point 82: Female Guest Artists – Hika K.

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Hika K.

Author’s Note: I will be writing in binary terms and use the formulation “man”/“- woman”, “female”/“male” instead of “read/ perceived as male/female” for a smoother read and due to a limitation of writing space. Therefore I hope that non-binary people will not feel excluded, especially since the inten- tion is to implicate perceived genders instead of exact gender prescriptions.

Where are the travelling female piercers?

I saw this question a few weeks back in a Facebook group for piercers and started to ponder. Indeed, where are they? If I were to name those that I am aware of, only a handful of names would come to mind – but reconsidering, thinking again I know there are more. I know them personally. I just forgot that they are travelling because I don’t see constant posts about their upcoming or latest travels. But even if I take those into consideration there are still not many, which is curious. If you asked me about travelling male piercers, my reply would be “Why, dear, nearly half of the males in our industry!” or at least that’s how it feels.

In all honesty I have rarely thought about travelling female artists. But once I started thinking about the question I couldn’t stop. Why are there so few, especially in the piercing industry, while I see quite a few female tattooers and performers travelling as much and as far as their male counterparts. Is our industry really so different? Between 2014 and 2017, I travelled what the people around me considered a lot – I didn’t see it as so much, compared to other artists. During this time, I travelled for guest spots to the point where I spent three months at a time constantly sleeping on a different couch every week. For me this didn’t seem to be outside of the norm. Apart from the fact that I didn’t promote it, there were really no hardships in finding new guest spots and work to do at all. Tattooers in the places I travelled were often surprised because they didn’t know about travelling piercers. Customers and friends were often surprised that piercers would be booked to go to other places and didn’t  stay  at  the  same  studio constantly. None of this had anything to do with my gender though. So how does it come that so few of my female peers are doing the same thing?

To be honest, although the mentality of our industry is far more open than more mainstream occupations, I have always considered it seemingly harder to be a female piercer. As in every workplace, we have to show far more competence than our male counterparts to be taken seriously; not always because our employers may see women as less professional, but more when it comes to clients. Outer appearance, physical height, and even the depth of our voice factors into the perception of competency, even if only on a subconscious level. Men can get away with more seemingly unprofessional or often what appears to be “cheaper” online representation with lesser quality photos than those posted by a woman. Strictness, being direct, blunt, or simple honest statements can be interpreted as rude, condescending or“bitchy” when it  comes  from a women, since we are expected to always be sweet and charming. On the contrary, it takes more effort to seem especially caring as a man. And even though it takes more work for a woman to be seen in the piercing industry as much as it does in any other profession, this should actually not stop us. In fact it should make us more prepared to do everything perfect at our guest spots – or as I call it, our homes for a limited time. It prepares us to not leave any room for mistakes but even to show beforehand in conversation why we are the best possible choice to fill in when help is needed.

So where are the travelling women?

As somebody who spends a lot of time researching stereotypical gender roles and their representation in media, as well as the result of this in the upbringing of persons of said genders, I have my own theories on all of this.

First of all an example that up to now I constantly shrugged off over the years: People tend to utter a certain surprise towards me when they learn I often travel unaccompanied. I love to be independent and make my plans alone instead of dragging people along. So even if I don’t work I often travel without company. For short travels and with a certain lack of money I don’t even mind hitchhiking, at least within Europe; for everyplace else I have watched too many horror movies. When I work I often get picked up by car from the train station or airport, especially at night—but this isn’t always the case. I don’t mind riding the train at night in unknown places. Most people don’t understand that. Most people can’t understand how I feel safe doing this. How I can feel comfortable even travelling alone in daylight.

Although I actually know these things, they didn’t come to mind until a friend reminded me. As a little girl you are told that it is unsafe for you to travel alone. As a woman this is confirmed. As a woman walking home alone at night you learn to change the side of the streets when a stranger approaches. You are trained early on to listen for footsteps behind you. Your kind is depicted in movies and books to be violated if no knight in shining armor appears early enough to save you. How safe can you feel alone on streets unknown to you then?

Where boys are brought up to be explorers, girls are brought up to need protection. Even if your parents don’t raise you in this direction, toys, advertisement, and children’s tv shows do. How many of the films that you watched as a child star a female hero leaving the safety of home going on a mission, or to just explore the world? I can’t think of any that were popular for my generation. The only stories where the woman or girl leaves home by her own decision are those where they do it for love.

For example, how many female characters are in The Fellowship of the Ring? On a side note: men are also trained from early on that it is adventurous to travel uncomfortably, whereas people seem to expect women to need it cozy. The shock on people’s faces when I tell them I slept for months on couches with only enough clothes to wash them once a week to be fresh again! If I hear the sentence “where is the rest of your luggage?” one more time! But it makes sense, given how much effort is put in by women to be considered “presentable” by society, as opposed to the effort men have to put into this. So it also might be more stressful for a woman to travel and still look “professional”.

This leads me to my next point. We are taught that love, the home, and a lot of emotional labor is what we are made for. In every mainstream movie or story from my childhood, regardless of how adventurous the heroine was, her adventures ended in the arms of a man. Even Mulan who subverted everything the man in her story thought a woman should be declines the option for a splendid career with the words “I have been away from home long enough.” The fact that she could have had her career and seen her family, well, that is another point and wouldn’t fit the princess themed message.

There is a certain idea in society, that a woman’s duties are to the family and are far more important than the idea of a career. As much as we are educated and can break away from traditional rules in our looks, behaviours, and career choices, it still feels uncomfortable to “neglect” the people in our life. Although I would argue that most of us are brought up to communicate a lot – which are the positive aspects of classic gender roles in this case – and be able to be present and supporting even via phone and text, it seems like it is not enough to only take care from far away. It feels often like the lack of physical presence is a cold shoulder towards our loved ones, especially our partners; I can see how this possibly stops women from leaving home and conquering the world.

Hell, even though I did regular guest spots gaining loads of experience in being away, and had different relationships (as well as friends) that all were supportive of my travels, I still feel a bit guilty when I make new plans. I feel like a bad friend for not being at birthdays. I feel like a bad girlfriend because it requires planning when to hang out and what events to go to together. I feel bad towards the customers in my hometown because they have to wait for appointments and I often can only do troubleshooting via text and refer them to other studios when    I am away. But all of this has to do with an idea ingrained in our brains by society that our role is to be nurturing and to always be “there”. Whereas we are trained through social constructs that it is fully acceptable, even a sign of great success, when a man doesn’t have time to make it to private events or to come home in time after work because of a busy schedule. A father working constantly and travelling for work? That is the way it is. But beware if a mother would consider a career that limits the time with her offspring that much, if she would put this responsibility on her partners shoulders! For a long while I thought it may be weird when I sometimes got asked “isn’t your boyfriend feeling bad?” or hear “well, you don’t show your boyfriend enough love when you are always travelling.” I wonder if men hear those things—but I highly doubt it.

The idea of having to be there, building and keeping up a comfortable and warm home, putting the  responsibility of the world on our shoulders—that is something we put on ourselves, because we may think we have to. But in the end: we are the ones pressuring ourselves. There is no higher power deciding that we should. We do so because we believe we have to take care of the happiness of other people, but we should take care of ourselves first of all. Staying calm and in a fixed workspace is fine, nothing I would argue against. But if the feet are giddy and there are too many “buts” in our head, one should think about how important those are and where they come from.

Even if you know that you should be able to pursue your career as much as your male counterparts, it is hard to let go of the pressure and responsibility and I hope that a lot more of my  sisters realize that it is worth  it to let go. This is exactly what makes you special and amazing piercers: your ability to care. Fighting the obstacles. Taking the hard road of standing your ground in a (longtime) male-dominated field. Second guessing yourself and overcoming it. Making double the effort to show that you are doing a good job. Not having the option of letting your ego be bigger than your skills.

The women in our industry rock and should get ready to conquer the world.

Point 82: Piercing-Courtney Jane Maxwell

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Interview by Sean Dowdell

Reprinted with permission from InkSpired Magazine Issue 36

Shop: Saint Sabrina’s

City/State: Minneapolis, MN

Number of years piercing: 10

Sean Dowdell: Why did you want to learn to do body piercing?

Courtney Jane Maxwell: My first professional piercing when  I  was 14 left a strong impression on me. The piercer’s  bedside manner and ability to create the feeling of a safe, controlled space was quite inspiring. I left the studio knowing that I wanted to be that for other people. My long standing interest in body manipulation only added to that.

SD: When did you start body piercing, who taught you and where?

CJM: I started piercing right after my 20th birthday, just outside of St. Louis (where I am from originally). I am one of those oddballs that was self-taught, aside from a little guidance from a few local piercers – not the most glamorous answer, but the honest one. I have to emphasize that I do not believe this is an appropriate way to start piercing. It was unusual circumstances that allowed for it in my life, but nonetheless, I don’t ever encourage someone to follow my exam­ ple, especially at this point in history.

Luckily, for the future of my career, I started going to the annual A.P.P. conference from the very beginning. Relentless pursuit of my continued education is the reason I made it through.

SD: What piercers did you look up to while learning and why? Who do you currently admire in the industry?

CJM: Early on, 1 always remember looking up to the instructors/volunteers at the A.P.P. conference, as well the piercers on staff with BME. The people who were stepping up and getting involved. I always really admired that as a young piercer.

As I got to meet and learn more from other piercers, I was so impressed by Luis Garcia. He is one of those people who is such an exceptional piercer and teacher that I simply can’t imagine the industry without him. I admire what he has been able to do for the profession, and the amount he gives back on top of being a full-time piercer.

I also have to name Brian Skellie. He has changed the game for us by constantly raising the bar for industry standards, and bringing in a totally different level of scientific understanding to the field.

SD: What do you feel is your biggest contribution to the industry as a whole?

CJM: Truthfully, I feel as though I’m just getting started. My first thought was, “ask me again in another 10 years!”

SD: What would you say you are most known for in the industry and in your place of business?

CJM: I had to think long and hard about this, but perhaps my patience? I deal incredibly well with people that are challenging to communicate with, be it clients or other piercers. It’s something that is a great defining factor in my work as a piercer, but has been quite helpful over the years in regards to outreach work as well.

In addition, a lot of piercers and piercees contact me regarding my knowledge of genital piercings for transgender clients (pre and post op) so I gather that I’m known for that as well. I’ve always been pretty passionate about advocating for the interest of genital piercing clients in general.

SD: Being a female piercer, what advice do you think that most female piercers should be aware of as they climb into this industry?

CJM: I think being female is a different experience for many different people, so I hate to generalize. That said, I encourage people to be prepared.Think hard about what it means to you to be a woman, and what that could mean for you in the workplace. Be prepared to handle the many ways people may behave towards you because of this. Don’t be left wishing you would have said or done something differently. You need to be confident in order to handle the many situations you will find yourself in, so arm yourself mentally.

SD: Is there anything you wish to learn or get better at in the piercing industry?

CJM: Everything. Always. I’m never going to be done! If I ever say that I am finished, do me a favor and kick my butt.

www.SaintSabrinas.com www.Facebook.com/SaintSabrinas

Point 82: Misty Forsberg

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By Efix Roy, Empire Body Arts

The first time I heard the name Misty Forsberg, it was attached to a photo of a beautiful and very well done scarification, and labeled as her very first piece ever. I immediately thought she was either a liar, or an extremely talented person. I was very happy to quickly find out she was indeed very skilled and knew exactly what she was doing. As a scarification artist myself, I followed her progression through this male dominated niche with great interest. Everything I would see from her on BME kept getting better and better, and I felt a wind of change coming as one of the rare women doing scarification professionally was making a name for herself.

Rapidly, her name was everywhere. I was reading her articles on Suspension.org, documenting the various activities and advancements in the body suspension community. I would see her running around the Dallas Suscons, quietly helping Allen Falkner make these events happen flawlessly. With his very special way of mentoring, she would soon discover a passion for education, teaching and training at suspension events all over the world. Her time and involvement within the body suspension world was rewarded in 2012 with the first A. “Spliff” Rosa Award for Advancement in Body Suspension. She went on to then co-found the International Suspension Alliance and sat as a Board Member on its first term.

All this being said, her biggest and most impressive achievement is probably her involvement in rewriting the body art legislation for the state of Arkansas. Teaming up with Steve Joyner and the Arkansas Body Modification Association, she embarked on a giant legal journey, fighting in the House and Senate against a state senator who used misinformation to try to ban certain body art practices such a scarification. From 2011 to 2013, they worked on stopping the ban on scarification while also passing safer legislation for the tattoo and piercing industry. From there, they worked on updating the body art rules and regulations for the state health department. The battle between their group and the senator was highly publicized, and as far as I’m aware, it was the first time the APP took a stance on a matter outside of the body piercing realm.

Although not actively piercing at this time, her interest in education and advancement of the piercing industry continues. Misty now focuses on laser tattoo removal  and is sought after for her extensive knowledge and amazing results. She still travels all around the world doing scarification, teaching, and facilitating body suspensions. Whenever she gets a bit of time off, you can find her on top of a mountain swearing at a bunch of rocks.

Not all heroes wear capes. Some of them wear old grandma sweaters, have a very quiet voice, and still kick more ass than Superman. Misty Forsberg is definitely one of the latter.

Point 82: Sarah Wooten

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By Elayne Angel, Rings of Desire, Reprinted from The Point Issue 64

President’s Award

One of my favorite things about serving as APP President is that I have the “job” of bestowing an annual award. There aren’t any formal or established criteria for me to follow, and in some ways that makes it even harder to reach a decision on the winner. That said, when I came up with the idea of naming this individual, I knew it was absolutely the right choice.

I wanted to make it clear during my brief speech at the banquet that it shouldn’t only be the super-sparkly, outgoing, attention-getting folks (such as myself) who are noticed. I wanted to recognize someone who is hardworking and highly participatory, but in a quieter, more behind-the-scenes way than some of us.

This person studied photography at the Art Institute of Chicago in 1992-93. They have been a professional piercer since 1998 and an APP member since 1999. This piercer worked in a studio as an employee for eight years, until 2006 when that business closed. They opened their own studio in 2007. This person is incredibly devoted, dedicated, consistent, and cares deeply about doing quality work.

This recipient has served admirably on the Conference Committee since it formed in 2008; she also volunteered at our annual events before that. She handles a task that is surely one of the most daunting and difficult with grace and compassion: She wrangles all of us speakers and our handouts and PowerPoint presentations so they are ready for Conference. Her patience and diligence are beyond measure. I’m a little embarrassed to admit she’s even had to goad me at times to extract my presentation materials.

Not only is this woman a wonderful piercer, a respected colleague, and a fantastic employer, she is also an amazing mother.

She has aptly been described as “The APP’s best kept secret.” This woman has earned my deepest respect and is so deserving of recognition for her efforts on behalf of the industry and this organization.

My selection for the 2013 recipient of the President’s Award is Sarah Wooten.

Thank you so much Sarah for all that you do. You earned this award so quietly and gently, yet thoroughly. Congratulations!

Preferring to make receiving the award a positive and pleasant experience, I did not require her to address the audience at the banquet. I am aware that this woman of many talents does not have public speaking high on her list of favorite things to do. So instead I suggested that she write something for The Point and here it is:

“I am feeling honored, humbled, and a little overwhelmed with having been chosen to receive the 2013 APP President’s Award. I like to joke around that I have some sort of obsession with volunteering, but the truth of the matter is that it’s one of the most rewarding aspects of having a career in this industry. I strongly believe that the APP has done an immeasurable amount of good for piercers, both for our industry and for our community. To me, the ability to give back by donating my time and energy in such a direct way is really gratifying. Being a part of the Conference Committee allows me to work closely with people I respect and admire, and to help create this wonderful educational event that benefits fellow piercers. I had no idea in advance just how much hard work goes into each year’s Conference, but the result makes the effort more than worth it.

“I’m incredibly thankful for the recognition. It makes me want to work harder and to do more. I’d also like to take this opportunity to encourage others to consider volunteering in some capacity. There are so many different ways to reach out and give something back, and I promise you’ll be glad that you did.”

Well said, Sarah!

Point 82: Alicia Cardenas

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By Casey Hosch, Sol Tribe Custom Tattoo & Body Piercing

Casey: Who are you?

Alicia: My name is Alicia Cardenas. I am a professional body piercer, tattooer, modification artist, and business owner in Denver, Colorado.

CH: How long have you been in the industry?

AC: Since July of 1994, so 24 years.

CH: Tell me a little about your apprenticeship.

AC: It was a very non-traditional apprenticeship under a woman who was very involved in the BDSM community. Her name was PJ and she was a Fakir Intensive graduate. She ran a tattoo/piercing/ dungeon shop in Denver called Bound by Design. My apprenticeship was very traumatizing! It was an unethical fast track to ritual in piercing. I don’t have any regret regarding the way I was taught, but would never do that to someone else. I consider myself to be a lifetime apprentice, forever learning especially in and around my involvement with the APP. I apprenticed for about 3 months. I went from never touching a client to full time body piercer in that three month period. Benefits of such a difficult apprenticeship are that I learned very quickly what I did and did not want to be involved in. I learned boundaries by  having  my  boundaries  pushed too far. I learned respect from not receiving any. I learned that even women can be abusive to other women. I learned that there is no amount of money that can replace trauma.

CH: Can you comment on the duality of science versus ritual, the importance of both in the piercing industry? With such a short apprenticeship, when did you experience/delineate both sides?

AC: When I started in the industry, there was very little science involved. We didn’t even package tools in disposable pouches. Tools went from autoclave into drawers and we used glutaraldehydes (cold sterilization) to disinfect. There were no regulations, no standards, and even the APP was merely beginning. There was only ritual and it was based (because of my teacher) in BDSM. Quickly I learned that this was not my way, sexually that is, but that I liked the ritual aspect of it. The intention and layers of emotion and spirituality called to me. The science and aspects of mathematics like measurements and clinical practices came much later and also intrigued me. I definitely helped bring the science to it after I became involved with different movements to get the industry regulated. The NEHA Body Art Code that all states use as their model codes, that was me in 1999.

CH: When you started, what was it like being a woman in a male run industry?

AC: DIFFICULT!!! I had to work twice as hard for half as much. I learned quickly to work with the shortcomings of my male counterparts, so we could  thrive as a team. I basically learned to wipe everyone’s ass to make myself an asset. I protected myself by laying down boundaries, basically telling all the men that I would not sleep with them to make my way to the top.

CH: How long have you been a business owner?

AC: Since 1996. I opened Addictions Tattoo Company with Chris Chrome in ‘96. In the summer of 1997 I opened Twisted Sol with Mike Nichols, and in 2009 I opened Sol Tribe with Kevin Strawbridge. Now I am the sole owner of Sol Tribe. So 21 years.

CH: I find it interesting that all your business partners have been men? Touch on that and why you have decided to go solo.

AC: I guess that is true. I have had many different collaborators over the years and many of them are men. My experience around male counterparts has been all over the spectrum. I have grown from having known them, I have emulated aspects of them, and I have outgrown them. I no longer wish to collaborate with anyone on a business level mostly because I work circles around people. I work hard and I have a lot of raw experience (I have fucked up a lot). I am, however, extremely grateful for all my partners even the one I don’t communicate with anymore. Each person I worked with has given me gifts of which I would not have gained on my own. I consider all my partnerships to have been successful.

CH: Who helped you on your journey to being the boss?

AC: My mother is my greatest influence and taught me to run my own show. She helped me open Twisted Sol the same year she passed away. I was always a bossy girl though, so it came very naturally to me. Turns out that bossy just means you are a strong leader.

CH: Why was it important to you to own your own business?

AC: If I didn’t own my own business, I would want to work for someone like me. Until that someone comes along I will continue do this (run my business). It’s important to follow your dreams and allow your visions to be realized.

CH: What change have you seen in the industry in the last 20 years?

AC: OMG! It’s almost unrecognizable. It’s heartbreaking… there is what I see as serious lack of ethics and respect in the younger generations of piercers. I have observed that many are no longer concerned with our history or lineage. BUMMER! Social media has changed the world and has certainly changed our industry. In my opinion you can have a huge following, do mediocre work (but you just happen to be able to take a decent photo of it), be a nightmare human who is cruel to others and to clients, and still be a sensation. Some things are going to need to change, and people are going to need to stop hiding behind their screens and learn to be good humans again.

CH: Let’s talk cultural appropriation. What is cultural appropriation?

AC: WOW. That’s a huge subject, and almost an article of its own. Let’s just say cultural appropriation is taking something, or using sacred symbolism, that is not culturally yours, for your gain. And using it without acknowledgment or education or even sensitivity of its original intention. Now having said that I would like to introduce a new phrase we should all become familiar with and that is cultural fascism. Cultural fascism is trying to control other people’s creative and free expression around cultural experience.

CH: Recently there was an ad from a jewelry company that didn’t sit well with a lot of folks due to the idea of cultural appropriation? What are your thoughts on that?

AC: It’s Cultural Fascism! Social justice warriors who are using social justice as a weapon to destroy people without knowing the entirety of the story. In my opinion, this is a huge subject and deserves a lot of attention. In this situation things went way too far. If your attempt to right a wrong (point out cultural appropriation) results in you threatening to harm someone over it, you have gone way beyond doing the work based in justice and you need to reexamine your work and vision.

CH: How does that affect you as a woman of color?

AC: Watching a bunch of people work out their decolonization and indoctrination is no longer interesting to me, especially on the internet. What America needs to know is that we, as a culture, were raised with white supremacy at the core of our values. And it’s going to take a lot more than a black president to pull us away from that. I am sad that we get caught up with what other people are choosing to do with their bodies when we still live in a world where people don’t have clean water and healthcare. Everyone needs to check their privilege and be rooted in the abundance we have come to know and stop taking it for granted. As a woman of color I am still distraught that there are not more women or women of color in our industry. I am horrified that a huge amount of the women in our industry still are on the outskirts of the industry and are heavily undereducated. I am mystified that people of color are not encouraged to start career paths in tattooing and body piercing. An industry with balance and diversity makes for a far richer industry (society). PERIOD.

CH: What advice would you give a young woman for success in the workplace? Or how do you continue to support women in the workplace?

AC: I continue to support women in the industry by investing in them. Teaching them and empowering them. My shop is an example of that! It’s run by badass women.

CH: Who have you trained? What is your experience around training others?

AC: I have trained only three people with full on apprenticeships, and only one is a full time piercer. It’s not a job for the weak. It takes constant growth and attentiveness. I am lucky to have trained you and consider our apprenticeship together to be one of the most thorough trainings I have ever witnessed, which only has half to do with me!!!!

CH: You trained me, the interviewer, what was that like as a whole? Why did you pick me?

AC: I picked you because you called and emailed me like 40 times. You being gifted in customer service was huge. I trained you because you would not take no for an answer and in this industry you have to fight for what you want. You were a natural born fighter. I am grateful that you carry on my legacy, not only in the moment of clean and effective piercing, but in a warmth, compassion, and effectiveness in touching other’s hearts.

CH: How do you achieve your work/life balance?

AC: I don’t! hahaha!!! I still live, work, and screw up my personal life constantly. But I would say having a system in place for self-care is what I am currently working on.

CH: Has being a mother changed any facts or opinions of the industry for you?

AC: Being a mother changed everything. Suddenly I had two kids, the shop and my real kiddo. Everything I learned in piercing has prepared me for parenthood. Compassion and patience. My child has expanded my conscientiousness.

CH: Where do you see yourself in the next five years? 10 years?

AC: I will always do body art. ALWAYS. It’s a lifestyle, not a job. But I imagine I will focus more on artwork and parenting and let you (the interviewer) run the shop until my kid can help you run it. I’d like to disappear into the woods and make a retreat center for healing. I would also like to sing in a mariachi band someday! 😉

CH: Who are some of your influences? Shout outs!

AC: Professionally—Women in the professional piercing industry who have inspired me include Elayne Angel, Gigi Gits from Kolo Piercing, Crystal Sims from Evolution, Ericka Smicenski from Somatic, Kristin Otter from Metamorphosis, Christiane Lofblad from Pinpoint in Oslo. And the anthropological efforts of Erika Skadsen. My favorite piercers also include Luis Garcia, Derek Lowe, Casey Hosch, Aaron Foster, Danny Yerna, Ryan Ouellette, Courtney Jane Maxwell, Chris Jennell. And on a personal level, Dave Field, Ana Paula Escalante, Caitlin McDiarmid, Beverly DeOlivera, Monica Larrea, Theresa Preston, Corey Lolley, and Casey Hosch.

Point 82: Mama Duck Caitlin McDiarmid

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I’ve known Caitlin for many years now, and I have never stopped being astounded at the level of love and commitment she has for our industry. Many of you know only a small fraction of the tremendous amount of work that she does. But instead of giving you paragraphs full of work details, I would like to talk about something else that she has contributed to our industry…

Caitlin has a rare gift of not only being able to recognize the strengths in others, but to help others recognize and develop their own strengths.

For more than a decade, she has overseen the groups of volunteers who assist us in running Conference every year. In the matter of a week’s time, she turns a group of relative strangers into a tight-knit and functional family. In addition to overseeing the largest event in our industry, she is also helping to instill in these volunteers a deep abiding love of serving our industry. She is somehow able to chan- nel being a friend/parent/sister/boss/teacher at exactly the moment each of these things is needed. Many of us have walked away from these experiences knowing ourselves better and with a strong desire to give back to this industry that we love. I feel like Caitlin is primarily responsible for this feeling.

Even after Conference, she makes a commitment to keep in touch with past volunteers, to offer support when needed, to pass along information about job openings, to spread the word when someone needs help, and to stay involved with this extended family. None of that is her job, that is simply dedication. To me, it shows how much her love for our industry extends beyond the confines of our profession, and into the lives of its practitioners. We are truly, truly lucky to have her.—Sarah Wooten

Caitlin “Mama Duck” McDiarmid is a pillar of power and the foundation of many facets of Conference. She’s the glue of the volunteer family and a prime example of what a strong, caring, and passionate person can do to affect change in the lives of others. I’m endlessly thankful to have her as a mentor, a leader, and an example of how to move through the world. She dances, she laughs, and she cries with us all, and she’s never afraid to get down in the mud with us and help us dig.- Dae Jedic

My first year at Conference was scary, but after meeting Caitlin and talking to her in person for the first time, all my anxiety went away because I could tell that no matter what she would be there to help me through the experience. And she did. I don’t know how the APP would function without her. She is the reason I come back year after year. —Aaron Foster

Many of you have heard me speak about Caitlin McDiarmid, who is often simply referred to as Mama Duck. I also have the distinct pleasure of referring to her as my twin;  we share the same birthday. But we also share so much more than that. I have been fortunate enough to celebrate this woman; during the 20th Annual Conference Banquet, I was able to stand in front of hundreds of you and tell every- one what I already knew – Caitlin is very special. I recited a piece of writing about pie. Pie is never the easy choice, but it is always worth the effort it takes. A perfect reminder that behind the scenes for many years there has been someone putting in the love, the long hours, the team building, the hard work, and all of if for us. I am lucky enough to have had this powerhouse of a woman as a boss, an employee, a men- tor, and most importantly as a friend. She has changed my life and lives of many others. So it is only fitting in an issue where we honour some of the many women who have lost sleep, spilled tears, and shed blood for their tribe, that we get out of our chairs and give this woman a standing ovation. This organization would not be the same without her and all she has done over the last decade.—Kendra Jane B

I met Caitlin only a short time ago but in a mere few months, she has single handedly changed my life, whether she is aware of it or not. I have her to thank for who I am growing into as a person and as a professional. During my overwhelming time (for myself and those around me) at the 2017 Conference, Cait- lin was at my beckoning if I needed her at all. For anything that I needed to speak about, cry about, or just to sit with. She put her needs aside for all of those who volunteered prior and present to help make the Conference happen every year. Our Mama Duck lived a turbulent year in 2017, but none of it stopped her from moving forward and keeping the APP alive and well, making sure our needs were met, that we were healthy and taken care of. She especially has impacted me to become more aware of my mental health and to take action on it. I hadn’t realized I needed to make a serious reality check on myself prior to my first Conference. She spoke to me gently and with immense professionalism, making sure that I fully understood where she was coming from as a Mama Duck. I have her to thank for the path that I am leading now. She truly is a strong warrior danc- ing queen. Mama Duck never quits; she works all year long for us and with us. Caitlin is a victorious manager and lead- er for our growing industry and I thank her for always keepin’ on. I love you, Caitlin.—Love always, Duckling Nina Mikulin

Caitlin’s title might be Administrator, but her expertise is far more than office management. She very much speaks the language of the industry and knows what’s happening before the rest of us. Piercers, studio owners, environmental health agencies, educators, jewelry companies, and health care providers all reach out to the organization for help. That makes Caitlin the first contact many of them have. She has to understand their needs and speak a language they understand. A school nurse’s needs will be different than a health inspector and Caitlin is proficient in communicating with both. Sometimes she needs to refer people requesting information and help to piercers in the APP community. This means she needs to be aware of who has certain skill sets and experiences and best suited for the job. If nothing else she must be an expert at delegating. Caitlin is great at her job and that can only happen if she loves what she does. So it’s obvious she has a lot of love for piercing, and whether or not you’re an APP Member, you benefit from her hard work.—John Johnson

Caitlin McDiarmid was the first person to really give me a shot at participating in  the APP. She helped me get some of my ideas incorporated into Conference; I’m happy to see both the Mentor Program and the workshop style of classes succeed because of that chance. Caitlin is a true inspiration to a generation of piercers who want to volunteer and see the industry and our organization grow. Thanks Caitlin! —Ryan Ouellette

Point 82: Michaela Grey

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By Marina Pecorino, Point Editor

Michaela Grey in 1995. The photo was taken for PFIQ Issue 45 commemorating Gauntlet’s 20th Anniversary

Obviously, Jim Ward is widely regarded as the “father” of the modern, American piercing movement, but who is considered the mother? In my personal opinion, that  honorary title should go to Michaela Grey. At a piercing clinic in New York, Michaela met Jim Ward; she was a student at Sarah Lawrence at the time. Prior to this meeting, Michaela and her then girlfriend were performing piercings out of their dorm room, but Jim made such an impression on Michaela that she decided to move to San Francisco and seek an apprenticeship. In May 1991, Michaela was hired as a summer counter person at Gauntlet, and soon advanced into an apprenticeship position under Scott Shatsky and Karen Hurt.

An excerpt from Running the Gauntlet:

“By 1993 the mass proliferation of body piercing studios staffed with inadequately trained piercers was causing grave concern with health departments and legislators. In some places there was talk of outlawing body piercing altogether. We at Gauntlet had tried repeatedly to get others in the industry to police and regulate themselves, but with minimal success. It became apparent that unless we banded together and became proactive, we could very well find ourselves out of business. We knew that if body piercing were made illegal, the only piercers continuing to operate would be doing so clandestinely, and piercing clients would be no better off than they already were.

Any Gauntlet Senior Piercer who wanted to get their Master Piercer certification was required to undertake a special project. Michaela was ready to make this advancement, and her special project, the magnitude of which we didn’t realize at the time, was to attempt to create a network of responsible studios willing to work together with healthcare professionals and legislators to set reasonable standards for the industry and regulate rather than outlaw it. This became so time consuming that friction developed between Michaela and her coworkers. The store manager wanted to fire her. […]

Despite her rough edges, it was apparent to me that Michaela had too many things going for her to simply turn her out in the street. So rather than abandon her I made the decision to mentor her and take her on at corporate as my assistant. This gave her the time and freedom to work on a number of projects, including what eventually became the Association of Professional Piercers (APP). […]

In 1994 the State of California was poised to pass legislation (Assembly Bill 3787) that would regulate body piercing, tattooing, and permanent cosmetics. A handful of piercers from several studios began to network and strategize how best to assure that these forms of body modification were not outlawed. Those who met at the Gauntlet corporate office for those early meetings included Raelyn Gallina, several representatives from Body Manipulations, Nomad, and Primeval Body in L.A. Along with some of his students, including Idexa, Fakir also attended. The office was full. As the pending legislation grew closer to passing, a group got together and drove to Sacramento. Michaela spoke on behalf of the industry during one of the hearings for the bill. She also did a number of television interviews. The bill ultimately failed thanks to lobbying by the ear-piercing gun manufacturers. However, this did not end the threats to the industry, and the need for a professional organization to deal with them.

The APP founding members, left to right, Irwin Kane (Gauntlet), Raelyn Gallina, Vaughn (Body Manipulations), Michaela Grey (Gauntlet), Melisa Kaye (Body Manipulations), Richard Carter (Primeval Body), JoAnn Wyman (Body Manipulations), Elizabeth Brassil (Body Manipulations), Drew Ward (Gauntlet); kneeling, Blake Perlingieri (Nomad), Kristian White (Nomad)

Future meetings were held after hoursat the Market Street store. From these the APP came into being. Not surprisingly, there was much wrangling, many heated discussions, and some friction. Some of those who attended left in a huff never to return or to come back many years later. Blake Perlingieri helped Michaela with registering the organization for nonprofit status, opening a joint bank account for the funds, and starting its newsletter The Point. With the assistance of Ghadi Elias from Mastodon in San Diego, APP moved forward and organized its first board.”

Michaela served as the original Chair (later retitled “President”) of the Association of Professional Piercers, starting from its inception in 1994 until she transitioned to the International Liaison in June 1997. During this transition of the Board, in The Point: Issue 10, Kent Fazekas, incoming Chair, wrote the following about her:

“Michaela Grey. Words cannot express the amount of gratitude the APP has for you. The amount of work you have put forth toward the APP is remarkable. As chairperson of the APP your workload is enormous, and I can only imagine the amount of time per day you donate to the APP (I may be finding out real soon). You have a very pure heart Michaela and your actions show that you truly believe in the APP’s mission. We love you Michaela.”

During the fledgling years of the organization, in addition to her APP Chair responsibilities, she worked diligently to produce early issues of The Point. She also served as the co-editor for PFIQ, helping to redirect its focus from male/leather, to a more female friendly perspective. In PFIQ #45, Michaela wrote the following:

I do not discern between the experience of being pierced, the healing process, and the completed, integrated adornment; they are wholistic and inter-relative. Being pierced is a natural extension of my need to create an intentional environment for myself–a world of spiritual completeness, practicality, and uniqueness. I fiercely intend not to live an unexamined, blind life.

I started at the San Francisco Gauntlet in 1991. Prior to that, I spent two years as one of those uneducated hack piercers against whom I now crusade. My current responsibilities as an educator and media disseminator put me in the position of being able to make a real difference in the piercing experiences of others, for whom I am grateful. Piercing and other body-affirming practices are becoming ever more popular in defiance of an increasingly depersonalizing world. I am proud to be one of those spreading this message.

Michaela worked closely with Jim Ward to develop a piercer training curriculum for Gauntlet and co-author  a  written  manual called Responsible Body Piercing in 1993; she later became the director and primary instructor for these seminars, with other Gauntlet piercers co-teaching.

In 1998, prior to the existence of the President’s Award, the Board dedicated the “Jack Yount Memorial Certificate of Recognition” to Michaela, for her efforts in promoting excellence in professional piercing.

The Jack Yount Award, 1998

Due to friction with others in the industry because of her so called “conservative” views, Michaela stepped away from body modification to pursue a career in graphic design and production art. Later she went back to school for costume design and graduated from the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising (FIDM) in Los Angeles.

In 2005, the APP presented Michaela with a Lifetime Achievement award, stating that “her work to secure the stability of the [APP] in the early days were critical to its survival. Piercers have had the opportunity to speak to the regulations which govern them worldwide as a result of her efforts.” You can read more about this special award in  The Point: Issue 48.

This was originally intended to be an interview with Michaela Grey, but unfortunately, she declined the opportunity. She made it clear that she “left the industry due to gross persistent misogyny and disrespect for piercing’s history and elders” and as a result would prefer to keep her distance. Michaela is not alone in these feelings, and this underlying tone illustrates precisely why this issue of The Point is themed around the women in our industry, past and present.

From Brian Skellie:

Michaela knows that some of us commiserate with her for the rough times she had with APP, and how much I and many other people still hold her in high esteem. We should ensure our archive reflects Michaela with honor and respect as a person not just an integral past political figure. She worked tirelessly as an ally to our mission, no matter how uncomfortable or stressful it was. She took on so much in her role at 23 years old, put up with hard work and difficult debates along with the good, and much of it was thankless. Without Michaela, the APP could have just been a tiny, short lived CA endeavor. Thankfully she helped clear away some of the nonsense that gets in the way of the good work. There is much more to her personality and her work than the awards we gave her and back issues of The Point can illuminate.

We have kept in touch since her APP years. Michaela’s ever present wit shines in our interaction when I brought up the Archive and asked for her to reflect upon her involvement and share her ideas:

“Aside from the looming threat of ill-conceived legislation, I was forming the APP at the time I was running two Gauntlet piercer seminars a month. I observed a wide cross section of the piercers currently working, from folks I admired and respected to a lot of people I wouldn’t want piercing an apple juice carton with a straw. If I seemed excessively cautious it’s largely due to the truly scary folks I encountered in the seminars, and knowing that they represented a likely majority of the industry at the time (and sadly, probably still today).”

I believe her caution was sensible. She is skillfully self critical, and never needed my opinion or assistance. Some others at the time seemed to play the devil’s advocate and enjoy getting strong responses. This treatment of her efforts was lamentable. She should be remembered as a great gift to the trade. She saw video of the 20th Anniversary panel discussion and noted:

“I’m usually never thinking about that part of my life. It was very moving to see so many old cohorts gathered at that table to talk about the early days of the organization. All water under the bridge. I’m mostly pleasantly surprised. Allen’s mention of me was unexpected and got me a little misty. As he said, we butted heads often. It’s good to see that we both did it from love of the craft. It’s also interesting to see that some quandaries like “do we let crap jewelry manufacturers on the Expo floor” persist to the present day.”

Some companies have learned what it takes to make standard quality jewelry, and done well. Others still are dodging any light we shine on them, but we hope they will come around.

“I’m awed and humbled to see how the APP has grown. I’m also loving the international outreach! I have a number of the new Members from Mexico and Italy on my FB feed and it’s awesome to see it grow.”

Michaela with Jim Ward at the APP Banquet 2005 when she received the Lifetime Achievement Award