Posts tagged UKAPP

Point 89: UKAPP Review

W. Barron

W. Barron

As I sit here in the airport waiting to start my nine-hour flight back home, I reflect about how it is still so surreal to me that merely four days ago I traveled 4,000 miles to attend my first UKAPP conference in Manchester, UK. Prior to me making this trek I had never been off the continent before or instructed a class solo. Let me tell you this was one of my most enjoyable experiences at a conference I’ve had. I expect that this is what it must have been like for the early days of the APP Conference.

Held at the Radisson Blu Edwardian in Manchester, England, the hotel was gorgeous and not what it seems from the street. According to the hotel’s website, it is set inside the historic Grade II-listed Free Trade Hall, one of the UK’s oldest and most iconic buildings. The fifth annual conference was on the fourth floor that has one main lobby area and three classrooms total. While the room prices were a little high, the hotel was central to some more affordable options, which is great for attendees that may be on a tighter budget in their travels. Nonetheless, the interior of the hotel and conference were modern and updated to suit the needs for the UKAPP’s fast-growing event for this year and the next.

One of Cale’s classes.
Photo by Cale Difrancesco

The conference was very simplistic in function, with no computers in use. To sign in you just go up to the registration desk and show your identification and proof that you are industry affiliated. They look for you on a printed list, check your name off, hand you a blank conference badge to handwrite your name down, then you move down the line to pick whatever badge ribbons suit you best and then off you go to start your three days of learning. All classes were on a first come first serve basis. At the time of the class, you just jumped in the line that was forming at that specific classroom. When the doors opened, you entered the room and gave the volunteer your name, which was then checked off at the door on a printed list with all the attendees’ names on it again, so you got the credit for attending the class.

“The engagement was refreshing for me and showed that we are all truly teachers and learners in this industry, no matter if you have six months or 20+ years experience.”

Each day started with a morning class at around 10 am 11 am, then afterwards an hour lunch break for the attendees, preceded by an hour lunch for the vendors at the expo. It was definitely a different change of pace to have time built into the day to not have to worry about how you were going to eat without missing any classes. The rest of the class day lasted until about 6 pm. After lunch is when the bulk of the classes were scheduled; it was very difficult to decide what to attend as there were so many phenomenal classes to choose from.

Cale DiFrancesco (APP Board Member), Charlie Remy LeBeau (UKAPP Board Member), and David Osborne (UKAPP Board Member). Photo by Cale DiFrancesco, APP Outreach Liaison

The class that I had the pleasure of teaching for the first time was Versatility of Needle Blanks. The idea for the class was to introduce needle blanks and various ways you can apply them to be an effective disposable tool in your studio. I covered what a needle blank and transfer pin were, and several the ways the attendees are able to use them into disposable clamps. The feedback that I have received from the organizers has told me that my class was well received and really got the gears turning for a lot of piercers that attended the conference. By no means was my class the pinnacle of the conference. Other great classes that were offered include the following, just to name a few.

  • Cannula vs. Needles
  • PA FUNdaments
  • Lumps and Bumps
  • Aseptic Technique
  • Self Care for the Happy Piercer
  • Building your UKAPP studio
  • Introduction to High-End Jewellery
  • Jewellery and Studio Presentation
  • Sexuality and Body Piercing
  • Doubles, Triples and Beyond
  • Ear Complexity

Overall the conference came in at 126 attendees with 12 vendors. It was amazing and  ran very smoothly. The vibes were calm, cool, and collective. The list of educators and instructors were fantastic, every one of them had passion you could see reflecting through each of their presentations. My favorite part about the whole conference was the attendees; everyone was very welcoming, kind, eager to listen and learn about what every instructor—including myself—had to say or teach. The engagement was refreshing for me and showed that we are all truly teach ers and learners in this industry, no matter if you have six months or 20+ years experience. I can’t wait to see what the UKAPP comes up with for this event in 2020. I would highly recommend this conference to any piercer, new or old, looking to experience something new in their career.

Nikki Proctor, Helen Houghton, & Lola Slider
—Source: @boldandgoldpiercingart
on Instagram



Point 88: Upcoming Educational Conferences

Outreach Committee

Upcoming Educational Conferences

The 5th Annual APP Members’ Retreat

Portland, Oregon: October 1–5, 2019

With the theme of ALIENS, the five year anniversary of Camp APP will be taking place at Mount Hood in the Pacific Northwest! Spaces are limited so register soon. Learn more about this amazing retreat on Facebook or by using the Member Login at safepiercing.org.

The 4th Annual UKAPP Conference

Manchester, United Kingdom: October 6–8, 2019

Join piercers from the UK and surrounding countries for another astounding educational conference at the Radisson Blu Edwardian Hotel and Convention Center. Find out more information on Facebook or visit ukapp.org.uk.

Point 88: Female Genital Mutilation & Piercing in the UK

by Lola Slider, UKAPP Medical Liaison

Headline from The Times from April 12, 2019
Photo by Paul King

In the United Kingdom right now there is a cloud over the legal classification of female genital piercings.

Their current legal status is effectively non-existent; they are neither legal nor illegal. This creates a vast cavity of misinformation available for gross misinterpretation.

I first contacted my local police department in September of 2016, after my failure to get clarification on this subject from my licensing authority, and got a response almost immediately. A short and clear, “yes, in a licensed shop on a consenting 18+ year old adult, this is legal.” Three short years later, in April of 2019, after three weeks of sending multiple reminders to two departments, I received a reply from the same police department. They told me, “I am not in a position to advise if any offence has been committed. In the event a complaint was made it would be a matter for the courts to decide.”

In that three year period no laws have changed in Scotland, which suggests to me it is the attitude that has changed. The Serious Crime Act 20151 is applicable only in England and Wales. Scottish female genital mutilation (FGM) law falls under The Prohibition of Female Genital Mutilation (Scotland) Act 20052. Both acts, however, contain the key word “mutilation” at the center of all this legal ambiguity. With a word so charged with connotation, it can be difficult to find legal clarification on exactly what it covers. With the intention of clarifying and standardizing the definition, the World Health Organization has classified FGM into four major types3. Unfortunately, the term “piercing” is used in Type 4, possibly in reference to the stitching involved in infibulation or forms of Sunna, where the clitoris  and labia are pierced and encouraged to bleed freely.

The Great Wall of Vagina (2008). Detail.
Photo by Jamie McCartney

The National Health Service (NHS) is “collecting data about women and girls with FGM who are being cared for by the NHS in England. This collection includes data items that will be routinely discussed by the patient and health professional as part of the standard delivery of care and that are included in the patient’s healthcare record.”4 Due to the classification by the WHO, “genital piercings are included” in this data collection, because “the data item FGM Type 4 Qualifier allows users to specify that the FGM was a piercing.” The FGM Enhanced Dataset—Frequently Asked Questions5 text goes on to state that “labiaplasty and genital tattoos are not included.”

What the piercing community needs are clear amendments made to the existing legislation that state cosmetic genital piercings on consenting adults, performed in licensed premises, are excluded from the classification of Type 4 FGM. This will eliminate the current legal ambiguity we face and protect us from investigations that, even if ultimately do not result in prosecution, could be career ending. This will allow women in the UK parity with men seeking genital piercings and it will prevent the NHS from recording women with genital piercings as FGM suffers. Under current Department of Health policy, patient permission is not needed to do so.

United against FGM, from Not Again Campaign
Photo: Uncredited

From January to March6 of this year alone, an astonishing 1,990 cases of FGM were recorded in England. We can only hope policymakers take the time, as I did, to find that only 1,015 of those cases were new and of that, 750 where recorded  as  “unknown”  as  opposed to being classified as Type 1 through 4. Of these, 85 were Type 4 and 65 were “not recorded”; how these   65 somehow became part of the statistics is anyone’s guess. By simply reading the first quarterly7 NHS Female Genital Mutilation (FGM) Enhanced Dataset of this year, the number has potentially been reduced  from 1,990 to 115.


  1. “Serious Crime Act 2015,” UK Public General Acts, legislation.gov.uk delivered by The National Archives, up to date as of August 13, 2019,
    http://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/2015/9/contents.
  2. “Prohibition of Female Genital Mutilation (Scotland) Act 2005,” Acts of the Scottish Parliament, legislation.gov.uk delivered by The National Archives, accessed August 13, 2019,
    http://www.legislation.gov.uk/asp/2005/8/contents.
  3. “Female Genital Mutilation,” Fact sheets, World Health Organization, dated January 31, 2018,
    https://www.who.int/news-room/fact-sheets/detail/female-genital-mutilation.
  4. “Health professionals and NHS organisations,” Female Genital Mutilation Datasets, NHS Digital, last edited October 3, 2018,
    https://digital.nhs.uk/data-and-information/clinical-audits-and-registries/female-genital-mutilation-datasets/health-professionals-and-nhs-organisations#publications.
  5. NHS Digital, “FGM Enhanced Dataset—Frequently Asked Questions,” updated May 2019,
    https://digital.nhs.uk/binaries/content/assets/website-assets/clinical-audits/fgm/frequently-asked-questions.pdf.
  6. “Female Genital Mutilation January-March 2019,” Female Genital Mutilation, NHS Digital, published May 24, 2019,
    https://digital.nhs.uk/data-and-information/publications/statistical/female-genital-mutilation/january-to-march-2019.
  7. “FGM 2019 Q1 – Report,” Female Genital Mutilation (FGM) Enhanced Dataset, NHS Digital, published May 24, 2019,
    https://files.digital.nhs.uk/18/643E66/FGM%202019%20Q1%20-%20Report.pdf.
  8. “Strengthening protection from Female Genital Mutilation (FGM): consultation,” Publications, Scottish Government, published October 4, 2018,
    https://www.gov.scot/publications/strengthening-protection-female-genital-mutilation-fgm/

Point 85: New UKAPP Brochures

The UKAPP has created two new informational brochures addressing female genital piercings and national concerns regarding the same. Please read the previous articles in The Point (Issue 70, Issue 74, and Issue 77) regarding the classification of consensual female genital piercings as mutilation in Europe. These UKAPP brochures were written in full cooperation with the APP and are of interest to anyone concerned about issues of body piercing, female health, and human rights.

Print ready PDFs of these may be downloaded from the organization’s website: https://www.ukapp.org.uk/ Please note that the order of the brochure is formatted to allow for tri-folding when printed, much like the brochures available from the Association of Professional Piercers: https://www.safepiercing.org/brochures.php

Point 81: UKAPP – An Attendee’s Perspective

Jess Farrar

On a Sunday in late September 2015, I attended the first official UKAPP seminar then titled UK Piercer Meet Up. We met in a social club’s basement that smelled like stale beer and had vaguely sticky floors. The ceilings were low, the lighting was dim and the space was cramped, but it didn’t dampen any of our spirits as we were too happy to be part of something bigger than ourselvesto start forging a community like the APP overseas we all aspire to.

The first year, I felt was a success, with Ryan Ouellette coming to not only teach, but also show support for our infant organisation and help us along the way. I met Ryan for the first time there and spoke with him about my goal of attending the APP Conference the following year, if I felt ready and confident enough to apply for the scholarship. His advice was impartial and well thought despite him being on the committee of people that awarded the scholarships; I already felt my anxiety about the prospect abate. He offered invaluable advice and support to many of us and helped educate us as a collective with his informative and relaxed teaching style. Simply having him there made the whole day seem more legitimate and established.

This first year was casual and took place over a single afternoon with just over thirty of us, but we left feeling refreshed and invigorated, ready to continue self-improvement as piercers and to strengthen the bonds we’d formed as a fledgling community. The majority of us had only met that day, some coming from other countries, previously with only professional contact online, if that.

The year that followed was full of education and interaction on a daily basis as more folks joined the UK Facebook group and started contributing with advice, techniques, and individual expertise. By the time September rolled around again we were all ready to gain some knowledge.

Yet more folks from APP came this time including Brian Skellie, Luis Garcia, and Paul King, who gave great classes. The new setting was a business suite at a swanky hotel which was a far cry from the first year’s venue. I think the room was full to overflowing that year with yet more people ready to learn; about sixty of us were there in 2016 for the two day event and the feeling of excitement continued to grow as our community and bonds strengthened.

I didn’t feel ready the previous year to apply for the Al D. Scholarship, but shortly after this round of classes and socialising I began to feel comfortable with the idea of doing the same thing in another country, on a grander scale, surrounded by familiar faces that I hadn’t met yet in real life. As daunting a prospect as it was, I applied for the scholarship in December 2016 and when I found I had been successful and chosen such a mixture of feelings flooded me elation, pride, and a gripping fear of feeling in over my head. Despite having wanted this moment to come for the past three years, I still didn’t feel truly ready or even deserving of the opportunity I’d been granted and I was determined to put my best foot forward, shedding the fear with each step. The UKAPP group was a fantastic tool to help me, as the previous connections I’d made with UK piercers made it easier for me to reach out to some individuals who had been in my position and ask about their first APP Conference experience, readying me for my own.

June 2017 finally came and I flew alone for the first time a huge deal in itself across the Atlantic to meet all the wonderful people that make Conference magic, to throw myself into the world of APP and I enjoyed every minute. Working as a volunteer while being a first time attendee (who took far too many classes) was exhausting, but it also helped to keep me grounded as I was instantly welcomed into a family of volunteers and organisers that lived, breathed, and slept (a bit) the Conference experience. I felt like I quickly became an integral cog in the well-oiled machine that is APP Conference. We all had a job that needed doing, a place we belonged, and a want to help one another, to make the best possible impression all round.

I had such a wonderful experience at my first APP Conference. It changed my life, certainly my outlook on friendships and the community we’re all a part of. I feel without first stepping out of my comfort zone by travelling to meet strangers in my own country, I never would have thought I’d be capable of attending Conference solo. I’d thought about it for such a long time and with such fervour that I almost made it seem unattainable to myself simply because I wanted it so much. Yet here I am, writing about my conference experiences with such a feeling of tranquillity as I do so, knowing I belong there, the feeling of being an outsider started to fade at that first UK meet up in 2015, but it truly left me when I became a part of the volunteer family at APP in June.

Three months passed since I returned from Vegas and the weekend of the third UKAPP drew closer. I felt no nerves this time, not even a pang of anxiety, simply excitement to be able to reconnect with fellow piercers, some I’d seen in Vegas a few months before, but most I’d not seen in a year. The venue was the same classy hotel, yet this time we had the entire floor available. More rooms had been opened up as an increase of vendors came this year, bringing their stunning wares. In addition to the larger variety of jewellery available, the raffle prizes were more prestigious. A scholarship program had been launched and there was a marked increase in the calibre and quantity of classes some were lectures, others became hands-on  workshops in a smaller setting and a few were open forums for discussion each uniquely taught and presented. This year too we had even more international speakers. We also had a really nice show of camaraderie from the UK folks as people with information to share with the collective and our industry took a stand and taught a class or two.

UKAPP has continually grown each and every year. Having already outgrown the venue we’ve recently been situated in, I think we’re even moving cities to allow for a larger area in a better connected city for next year. The first meet up I attended was something I was already proud to be a part of, but seeing how much it’s grown in the past two years is unbelievable. So much love and passion has been committed to this movement of furthering the UK industry as a whole. Instead of just being a group of individuals trying to accomplish our dreams, we are all starting to pull in the same, worthwhile direction, sharing information we know to be worth learning, regardless of whether the person benefiting from it is our “competitor” or not quite at a level of skill we’d like to see. This is how we get there, together.

The lesson APP taught me is that we are all simply cogs, we can get along just fine on our own, but when we group together to become part of something bigger than ourselves, that’s when the magic happens. UKAPP 2018 is already something I know anyone attending will be proud of, and while it’s nowhere near as polished or developed as APP it is a foundling organisation ready to grow, take shape and gather momentum. For anyone in the UK reading this, you should absolutely attend next year; you will not regret it. Same goes for people within Europe, we’re all pretty well connected so let’s not let borders get in the way of our collective education! Even folks further afield will find this event worthwhile, especially if you can use it as an opportunity to see the beautiful English countryside and some of our studios, just make sure you bring waterproof clothing; the reputation of our weather is there for a reason, so don’t say I didn’t warn you.

I sincerely look forward to seeing what the UKAPP has to offer us all in years to come and it’s been a pleasure to be a part of, if only as an observer and an attendee. I hope my involvement will only deepen and my self-confidence increases as time goes by. Regardless, one thing I am sure of is that the UKAPP is already an invaluable resource to new and seasoned piercers all over the United Kingdom, and our nearby colleagues. With further involvement from anyone in a position to help, it will not only benefit the people already part of the organisation, but for future generations of piercers to come.

I already know that if the UKAPP was established when I started piercing I would have grown faster as a piercer, but at the same time I’m glad I had the shaky, self-taught introduction that I did into this industry.  I treasure so much because through my own pitfalls and shortcomings, I have been able to work harder to change everything with my own hands and now I get to taste the fruits of my hard earned labour. I’m under no impression that this is a rite of passage that every person wanting to become a piercer must undergo, and I hold no bitterness or resentment toward the newest generation of piercers that have all this pertinent information readily available to them, but it is up to them to utilise it to the best of their ability. I only hope I will be able to help in one way or another with someone’s quest for knowledge, the very same way people like Ryan helped me. Be kind and considerate and never knock someone for truly wanting to learn and better themselves.

No matter where you feel you are in your piercing career a seasoned veteran around since BME days or someone fairly new, perhaps at apprentice level these organisations are here for you to make yourself a part of and improve yourself in any way you can. If you have something worth teaching, you know where to find people eager to listen. If you feel that you are a small fish in a big pond with deep seated feelings of inadequacy (kind of talking to myself here) that  is precisely what the UKAPP and APP are here for self betterment and in turn the betterment of our industry as a whole. It is not an unachievable dream, especially not if you take a deep breath and jump into this world of readily available, invaluable information feet first. We’ve all been in questionable situations at one time or another. Half the piercers I know, myself included, wouldn’t even say we had a proper apprenticeship. I can only speak for myself here, but without the APP’s outreach program and public education I would not have picked up as many pertinent bits of information that my “apprenticeship” neglected to recognise as important. Instead, it’s being a part of all of these forums and groups, these pockets of subculture that willingly impart lessons on anyone paying attention and asking the right questions that taught me how much I truly still had to learn. Get involved and visit the next conference for your sake as well  as that of your clients, peers, and even the general public. It is lack of understanding that breeds ill will and resentment, so the more we know, the more we can help with the betterment of one another and the industry; we all help continue the legacy in our own ways. Now that so many valuable tools are available to us, utilise them to educate yourself, for knowledge is power and we are forever learning!

Point 81: UKAPP Photo Spread

Basics of tongue piercing with Ryan Ouellette
Photo by Sebastian Wolfe Pickersgill
Classroom photo of Mike Hill’s class Going Disposable
Photo courtesy of UKAPP
2016 UKAPP Board Members
Photo by UKAPP
Group photo at Whistle Punks
Photo by Sebastian Wolfe Pickersgill

Point 81: UKAPP Third Annual Seminar

UKAPP Liaison
Photos by Nicole Holmes

One weekend a year in England, piercers from across the UK and Europe gath er together to share knowledge, discuss business, talk social media and get their hands on some of the world’s best jewellery. This year, we also got to throw axes at Danny DeVito.

The third annual United Kingdom Association of Professional Piercers Conference began on Sunday, 17th of September, with around 110 attendees; quite the growth from our first year, where 35 of us (including speakers and vendors) crammed into the basement of a Birmingham nightclub for one day of  talks and socialising. From this small, but fun event, we grew into our second year, where we moved to a hotel and extended our event to two days of talks, due to the fact that we doubled our attendee numbers. Year three proved even better, not only with us needing to add yet another day of talks, but needing to add   a second classroom as well; our numbers tripling from our first year!

In years past, we’ve been lucky to receive an incredible amount of support from the Association of Professional Piercers and this year was no different. They once again provided us with some of their fantastic speakers; UKAPP regular Ryan Ouellette kicked off day one. He presented his “Tongue Piercings” class, which had already proved a big success at this year’s APP Conference in Las Vegas. The room filled up quickly with people eager to improve their core knowledge, something that we at the UKAPP strive to implement as much as possible at our own conferences.

But he didn’t stop there. Ryan gave another talk later that day, which had the classroom once again packed to capacity: “Septum Piercings, Where Skill Meets Luck.” It’s a common subject within the UK forums, with many piercers getting “The Fear” when a client comes in asking for this particular piercing, so this talk was highly anticipated. We took  a survey from our attendees after the conference and had one attendee stating, “The septums class was a game changer!”

Not to be outdone, we had our second classroom this year acting as a roundtable room, with some of the UK’s best and brightest leading discussions. Speakers included Aiden Johnson (whom some of you may have seen at APP giving his talk on Metals), our fabulous President Nicole Holmes, and a special guest speaker, Sue Hutchinson talking about self care. Sue is the mum of our lovely secretary Kim and a wonderful addition to our speaker team!

For those unfamiliar with a Roundtable, though the talk is lead by selected speakers, it’s a place to openly discuss our ideas, opinions, and offer help to each other through conversation and troubleshooting. Personally, these are some of my favourite types of classes, as they often prove less intimidating to those who may not want to ask a question in an 80 person classroom, but don’t mind so much chatting with 20 or so others in a more casual environment.

As day one came to an end, whilst some were headed to the bar  or  dinner,  around 40 of us were gearing up for a very different event… Axe Throwing! The unofficial after party of UKAPP 2017 was organised by one of our Scottish piercers, Nikki Lloyd-Proctor. She arranged for the venue, Whistle Punks, to open its doors to us on the one day a week they were closed, so we could try our hand at some hatchet throwing. This was also a teetotal event, as we knew there were a good number of non-drinkers who may want to have entertainment other than hanging round a  bar or sitting watching reruns from their hotel room.

“I’ve learned so much, and I felt so welcomed, a part of the UK piercing family! THANK YOU IMMENSELY FOR EVERYTHING!” UKAPP attendee

After a few practise demonstrations and a quick request for some more event appropriate music (pop music and piercers don’t oft go hand in hand) we got to business. This is where poor Danny DeVito comes into play! Brought along for a giggle by lovable Liverpudlian Mick Stocko, the lifesize cardboard cutout didn’t fare too well or for too long after he got hung up for target practise!

Day two was set into full swing with talks from Sala from Pinpoint discussing Surface Anchors. Paul King gave a full update on the FGM laws that are currently affecting the UK piercing scene, a subject with which he has been consulting with many of us on. There was also a welcome return of Dr. Matt Lodder of Colchester University and his new class “Myth of the Modern Primitive.” Matt has been teaching and working around the UK, specialising in tattoo art history and UK body piercing history and has an enthusiastic audience at UKAPP!

Meantime, some of our first time UK speakers took over the roundtable room, including an in depth (and invaluable) class on Social Media from Maree Fowler, Andrew Davenport, and Sebastian Wolfe Pickersgill, and a chat with Dr. Emma Spoor, a regular piercing fan who works closely with President Nicole Holmes.

However our star speaker from day two was so popular, we had to turn people away due to the room filling to capacity before it had even begun! Mike Hill originally thought that his idea would interest a handful of people, but after a gentle nudge and a couple of chats, he agreed to take on the roundtable room with his discussion “A brief introduction to disposable piercing.”

As of yet, working with disposable tools and equipment hasn’t garnered too much attention in the UK, but with the unexpected popularity of this discussion, it could soon be in the cards for a lot of piercers looking to improve their practises. Mike gave a concise and highly informative chat as well as providing goody bags to those who came along (although we all underestimated just how many people wanted to see his talk and getting a goody bag almost became a status symbol.)

Day three came around all too soon, but boy did we go out with a bang. Not only did we have one President, oh no, we had TWO. Former APP President Brian Skellie and current President Jef Saunders both made an enormous effort to join us this year, with Jef travelling directly from the Fakir Intensives in the US to Birmingham UK and teaching within 12 hours of landing. We didn’t let him off with an easy day either, Jef gave a fantastic talk on Nipple Fundamentals in our main classroom. He also co-presenting two more talks in our roundtable room, along with Ryan Ouellette and rising star of the UK scene, Lola Slider from Glasgow, Scotland.

Brian Skellie, as anyone who has ever met him will verify, is more like a vast calm sea of knowledge than a fountain of knowledge. He once again provided us with a fascinating talk on Bevel Theory, in which there’s always something new to be gained from his engrossing explanations. He also provided us with more of his brain power by co-presenting an anodizing class with Lola. It is evident from the influx of anodizing posts on UK forums that this class was a big success.

Lola Slider, as aforementioned, is one to watch in the piercing world, not only for her precision and dedication to quality piercings and jewellery, but the way in which she presented her classes this year. Her natural ability to hold the attention of 30 odd piercers packed into a small room, swarming around her to see her needle bending techniques was something to behold. She held her own amongst industry heavyweights and we cannot wait to see where the future takes her next (and we hope that will be with us again next year at UKAPP 2018!)

“In the short time the UKAPP has been going, it’s taking on a life of its own, we love you all, great job”–UKAPP attendee

We were happy to see even more vendors this year, both homegrown and international! From independent jewellers such as Alice Ruby, Stonewolf, and Danila Tarcinale, to Naga Jewellery, Sacred Symbols and the team from Lovely Lobes and Maya. Special thanks goes out to the amazing gang from Industrial Strength UK, headed by fearless leader Patrick Kielty, who even spent his birthday with us at conference! Paddy has constantly shown support for the UKAPP and has made ISUK a gateway brand for many of  the UK piercers who had not previously had the opportunity to see the jewellery up close and personal. Without the loyalty and love shown to us all from this bunch, UKAPP wouldn’t be the same!

Now, it may be known to some of you that piercers occasionally like a party; well, the UK crowd is certainly no exception! This year we held a Rocky Horror Themed party at the bar of our venue hotel, The Radisson Blu, with fancy dress encouraged! We were not disappointed by the outcome either (you’ve reallynot lived until you’ve seen how great Paul King’s legs are in fishnet stockings.) Although there was no ‘Best Dressed’ award, incredible outfits were worn by Becky Crossan of Inkhaus Tattoo, Peter Monckton (our Vice President!) and the gorgeous bunch from Adorn Art Gallery!

This year was a year of firsts for a number of reasons. Our members grew into double digits! We’ve been accepting Members into the UKAPP for the past year   and have grown from the 6 Board Members, to over   20 current Members (with all but two in attendance     at conference this year!) We’ve already got a few applicants ready for when the Board reopens the application process and we look forward to welcoming more members from the UK and from overseas as well. You can see more details about membership via the ukapp website www.ukapp.org.uk. We  also introduced the Mentor  Program this year, where people could ask to be buddied up with another attendee. As an industry, a large number of us suffer from anxieties in one form or another, often social anxiety, and whilst we do what we can to help ease these anxieties, we thought that attendees may benefit from one-on-one mentoring. We had a separate registration section on our conference floor, a half hour introduction and mingle with our assigned mentors and mentees and a bit of quiet away from the crowds towards the entrance of the floor. It went well and we hope that this is something we can keep going for next year.

It’s been a crazy year. Myself and the other Board Members were thrilled with how it all came together. We want to express our deepest gratitude to the APP for their unwavering support, the volunteer team who helped keep the conference running as smoothly as possible, and to the friends and family of the Board Members who helped keep us cool as cucumbers in the run up to an event which holds a deep and special meaning to us all.

Point 79: UKAPP Update

Nicole Holmes
UKAPP President

The UKAPP hasn’t been quiet over winter; even if you haven’t heard much from us, we have been busy. Growing in number from six to 14 full members since September, we  now have a members locator on our site and traffic is growing steadily.

There have been two social functions – one in Liverpool and another in Bristol – and lots of online activity. All this activity has allowed us to talk and hash out ideas with people interested in the industry, membership, or involvement at many other levels.

Our now annual Conference is heading into its third year and has proven to be such a huge success that this year we are including a lot more to see and do. Vendors, lessons, our rooms, and discussion groups are all being expanded. We have even added a raffle and photo competition. So, definitely more excitement as we do all our planning and our Conference gets closer!

This year  the conference will be spread over three days, 9/17 through 9/19 at the Raddison in Birmingham. We hope to see you there.

Point 74: The UKAPP – Part 2 – Ryan Ouellette

Ryan Ouellette headshotRyan Ouellette
Precision Body Arts

 

“The whole thing was a highlight for me, being kinda all alone with no support network one day, then the next having a hell of a lot of talented and friendly people to be able to talk to was amazing.”

—Gareth Rogers, piercer
Old Forge Tattoo Collective
Sheffield, England

In my last article I discussed some of the challenges faced by UK and EU piercers. In this article I’m going to write about what a group of British, Irish, and Scottish piercers have done in response to those challenges.

September 20, 2015 in Birmingham, England—the first ever open meeting for the United Kingdom Association of Professional Piercers

The work started in the early afternoon at the rented venue. There was the typical bar area upstairs and a quiet meeting room downstairs. Things kicked off with the UKAPP officers (President, Nicole Holmes; Vice President, Peter Monckton; Treasurer, Aiden Johnson; Secretary, Kim Hutchinson; Outreach, Sebastian Wolfe Pickersgill; Health Liaison, Charlie Remy LeBeau) nervously discussing the day’s agenda and beginning to set up. Soon, there was a group of roughly 50 piercers from throughout the UK in attendance. The energy was great. As an outsider who has been to many many industry gatherings over the years, it was inspiring to see something from the beginning.

UKAPP Board of Directors
UKAPP BOARD OF DIRECTORS: Left to right, Aiden Johnson, Charlie Remy Le Beau, Peter Monckotn, Sebastien, Kim Hutchinson, Nicole Holmes

The meetup started with the officers introducing themselves, discussing relevant issues, and laying out the early stages of the UKAPP’s mission statement and goals. The UKAPP doesn’t want to start with too much; their main effort is to reach out to local piercers and bring as many together as possible to help create a community of professionals. UKAPP President Nici Holmes, stated their goal was not to tell other piercers how to work, but rather to listen and get a sense for what the organization should strive to offer as it grows. She also mentioned that one long term goal of the UKAPP is to establish criteria for membership, but that pushing for a membership structure immediately is not a priority while the group is still in its infancy.

A huge issue in the UK is the government classification of consensual genital body piercings as genital mutilation, including piercings like the clitoral hood. Many UK piercers have chosen to stop offering these services as they may be held liable for legal action. The group discussed steps to counteract this classification such as client petitions and reaching out to local councils. If you have interest in this topic, in Issue 70 Paul King discussed when body modifications are considered mutilation, specifically in regards to Female Genital Mutilation (FGM).

The next topic was the concept of a voluntary rating system. This idea was elaborated on by 2015 Al D. Scholar, Charlie Remy LeBeau. The idea is in an early stage of development, but the intent is to offer something similar to a star rating system used for restaurants. The rating would focus on shop features and safety issues, such as the sterilization facilities, piercing work areas, and types of jewelry used. The rating system is intended to be optional so as not to create unfair competition between future UKAPP members.

Once the officer introductions were finished, there was a meet and greet among attendees. The energy in the room was very positive. It seemed that everyone was happy to finally have a physical outlet to share information with other piercers in their own country. One attendee brought up the fact that she and other piercers had tried to set up a similar group years ago, but due to a lack of cohesive community it never took off. Part of the event’s success may have come from the support of Industrial Strength UK, the official distributor of their parent company for the US. Industrial Strength UK’s Paddy and Lee were in attendance with a great display of jewelry showcasing items that were previously only available by ordering from the United States. It was clearly appreciated by attendees to have a major jewelry manufacturer/distributor present to support the event and the new organization. I got the impression that a few piercers in attendance hadn’t previously been able to see a wide assortment of high quality jewelry in person before. You could tell that something as simple (and often taken for granted) as accessibility to high quality jewelry was very inspiring and encouraging. Paddy took some time later in the day to give a presentation on high quality jewelry sales; increased flexibility was a major point in his talk. Having a distributor in the UK with high quality jewelry in stock and ready to ship within days rather than weeks or months can create amazing possibilities for local piercers. Hopefully the success of Industrial Strength UK will spur other manufacturers to follow suit and increase support in the United Kingdom like we have seen in North America.

I was lucky enough to be invited to speak at the meet-up. I did a variation on the workshop classes I instruct at the APP Conference in Las Vegas. First, I presented a Safe Practices in the Sterilization Room portion. We discussed proper layout of sterilizing areas, how to process tools post-piercing through chemical, manual, and mechanical means, and the importance of proper PPE and documentation. After a short break we began Safe Practices in the Piercing Room. Here we discussed setting up your work area, opening packaged instruments, prepping the piercing site, performing the piercing, and cleaning up afterwards, all with a focus on preventing cross contamination. The attendees were engaged and participated with lots of comments and questions. My beard net was a big hit for comic relief. I even learned something very important; that a beard net’s proper name is a “snood”. Worth the transatlantic trip right there.

For me, the class that stood out the most was the Metals & Surface Polish class from another 2015 Al D. Scholar, Aiden Johnson. Aiden has an engineering background and his knowledge and interest for metals was apparent in this class. I have taken material data classes before, and while I learned a lot from them they might have felt a little dry. Aiden gave us just enough information on commonly used piercing industry metals such as steel, titanium, niobium, and gold to keep things educational while also giving us historical information to keep it interesting. With his knowledge base, I could easily see Aiden developing similar classes to one day co-instruct at the APP Conference and other industry events alongside leading experts like Jason King and Brian Skellie.

In addition to the materials information presented he also discussed surface polish at length. As piercers most of us understand why surface finish is important, but not as many understand the process of how body jewelry is hand polished. Aiden explained polishing with a bench grinder, polishing wheels, and polishing compounds. By the end of the seminar I had gained a better understanding of the time and precision required to achieve a mirror shine without damaging the jewelry. As an added bonus Aiden had brought a bench grinder and polishing set up so that attendees could each take a turn hand polishing pieces of jewelry. After scratching some demo jewelry with sandpaper volunteers buffed and polished the piece to a mirror shine in just a few seconds. I saw more than a few smiling faces as a result of this hands on exercise. It was a great learning experience and a creative way to keep people interested.

Once the classes were finished there was more time to socialize while the organizers packed up. I saw a lot of new friendships and professional connections made that day. You could feel the vigor and enthusiasm as people began talking about future meetings and making plans to stay in touch, visit, and shadow each other. Overall, I don’t think it could have gone better. This group of dedicated piercers should take great pride in what they put together. I look forward to seeing what the future holds for the UKAPP. These British, Irish, and Scottish body piercers have really shown how much they care about their industry and I applaud their hard work.UKAPP 2016 meeting

Point 73: UKAPP, A Prelude – Ryan Ouellette

RyanOuelletteRyan Ouellette
Precision Body Arts

In September of 2015 I traveled to Birmingham, England for the first seminars of the newly formed United Kingdom Association of Professional Piercers (UKAPP). When I got home and sat down to write about my experience I found myself thinking more about wider-reaching industry issues which affect not only the UK, but Europe as a whole. My intention was to give a little perspective as to why there are so few APP Members overseas compared here in North America. Once I started I discovered there was much more to the issue than I could properly cover in a single article, so I have decided to make this a two part piece. Hopefully it will give you an idea of the challenges European piercers face if they want to meet APP membership standards, and in turn hopefully it will show you just how impressive and hard working this group of piercers is.

I travel, what many would consider, a fair amount for a full time piercer. Not as much as some, but much more than others. I try to do as much of that travel outside of my home country (the United States) as possible. I like to see new countries and cities, and while I’m travelling I like to meet other piercers and learn how they practice our craft in their respective areas. When I meet piercers from Europe the conversation always ends up being about the APP. I hear quite a few issues voiced when the topic comes up, not necessarily with the organization, but more so in how our Members talk about other regions or parts of the world being “behind” when it comes to piercing. There is the perception that APP Members imply a piercer who does not use the best jewelry available is being unprofessional. I myself have even made the mistake of assuming “good piercing” is all about the jewelry. Now in an era of social media, these perceptions are more important than ever. Anyone can get nice jewelry, install it in a new or healed piercing, and take a picture. That does not make them a good piercer, or a true professional. In my opinion the sign of a professional is continuing to learn and evolve and to strive to give our clients the best work possible. That doesn’t mean you start out doing exactly what you want. For most piercers it is a struggle and you are constantly working towards a goal that, in turn as you progress, changes over time.

I have met piercers in almost a dozen different countries around the world and I see the same challenges that piercers in the US face: “my customers won’t pay X for good quality jewelry”, “my boss won’t invest in quality”, “there are no educational opportunities in my area”. These are all obstacles that a piercer can overcome with time, persistence, education, and a flexible budget. However, there is another aspect that I think US piercers take for granted: access to supplies. In the European Union (EU) and the United Kingdom (UK), piercers have an additional challenge. As an example, if you want to order Neometal, Anatometal, BVLA, or most other US made jewelry, not only do you have to deal with long wait times, but also increased shipping costs, delays with customs, and substantial import taxes. Canadian and Latin American piercers face these challenges as well, but to a lesser extent, due to their proximity to where most high end piercing supplies are manufactured. In England, if a piercer orders jewelry they have to pay approximately 20% extra to import it into their country, and that is on top of already significant international shipping costs. Imagine waiting even longer and paying even more. How many US piercers, barely keeping internally threaded and threadless jewelry in stock, would implode at that added challenge? There are almost no native companies manufacturing body jewelry in the EU or the UK at this time. Many have moved production to Asia to lessen costs. Those companies left manufacturing in the EU and UK offer little to no internally threaded jewelry, hand polishing, or products made from materials the Association of Professional Piercers would classify as acceptable for initial piercing.

Needles are another obstacle. How many American piercers are aware of the differences between “blade needles” or “cannulas”? There is a simple reason why; you would never need to. Any American piercer can buy needles made specifically for body piercing, in varying qualities. Again, in the EU and UK there is little to no access to what we would consider “piercing needles” without importing them. In most of Europe there are fewer restrictions on medical devices so it is very common for piercers to use medical catheter needles and biopsy punches to perform body piercings. They call what American piercers use a “blade” needle to distinguish it from the more common cannula needles they are using. Since they don’t have the same access to blade needles many of their techniques are built on a foundation of using the cannula sheath for jewelry transfers. If you are unfamiliar with a cannula it is a plastic sheath covering the needle that can slide off and be used as a catheter. If you have had IV fluids in your arm or hand at the hospital. That little tube going into your vein or artery is a cannula. The application is to pierce through the tissue, once the needle and sheath exit you can slide out the needle leaving the cannula in place. You can then insert jewelry (internal or external) into the sheath and back it through the piercing. In theory this covers external threading during insertion so many European and British piercers see it as negating the risk of using external threading. Whether is does or does not could be another whole article.¹

I hope by now you can see where the different mindsets come from between US and Europe counterparts. Imagine all those obstacles, and a piercer without those obstacles calling you lazy or sloppy because you do not have the means to overcome said obstacles. It would be frustrating, it might even make you apprehensive to strive to reach the goals that same piercer holds as being a minimum standard. One of the most common complaints I hear about the APP is that membership is geared almost entirely to piercers in the United States. While it is true that the vast majority of APP Members are operating in the US, I have met APP Members all over the world: Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Mexico, England, and more. If APP membership is not an easy goal to achieve in a specific region, another option to improve standards is to create a local organization such as the APTPI (Italy), LBP (Mexico, Central, and South America) and the newly formed UKAPP. The point of these other organizations is not to have lower standards, but to have standards geared towards their specific region. For instance, if jewelry concerns are not the main obstacle, the organization can instead focus on other safety issues such as sterilization, studio layout, and training.

Every Fall I travel to Essen, Germany to teach seminars at the BMXnet (Body Modification Exchange Network) Conference. I’ve met some fantastic piercers from all over Europe there. At the 2014 event I spent quite a while talking with a British piercer named Nici Holmes. We talked about many of the points mentioned above. Specifically, we discussed how it is very challenging to be a piercer who wants to offer quality, especially when the items that go into a “quality” piercing need to be imported from another continent. We talked about how many of the best piercers in the UK could not meet membership standards set forth by the Association of Professional Piercers. One of the concerns she voiced: most, if not all, of the jewelry that meets APP standard is based on ASTM material standards, which has led to some confusion as it previously stood for the AMERICAN Society for Testing and Materials.² The APP jewelry standards were revised in 2009 and currently include both ASTM and ISO designations. Much of Europe is moving away from allowing steel as an acceptable material for body jewelry due to nickel content, but at the same time Europe widely allows the use of G23 grade titanium, which is an industrial grade, rather than an implant grade material. G23 Ti has been used as an alternative to nickel containing alloys and its safety has not been addressed, as regulations focused on eliminating nickel as an allergen, not on validation of a material for safe healing and prolonged wear.

Nici talked about how she wanted to start a dialog with other British, Irish, and Scottish piercers to try to form a new group. At first I thought the intention was just to have some casual meetings and discuss industry issues. Apparently the idea caught on and soon after, with the help of a crowdfunding campaign, there was a new nonprofit formed to focus on safe body piercing in the United Kingdom. One of their first acts was to host a central meet. In the next issue of The Point I plan to elaborate on what was accomplished at their first meeting.

¹The plastic sheath is easily damaged which in turn can damage tissue. Also, the blade length is significantly shorter, limiting or preventing many of the bevel theories modern freehand piercers are so fond of.
²The ASTM has focused on international trade since the 1970’s. In 2001 it was rebranded as ASTM International, and is used globally in more than 140 countries.