Category Industry History

Point 82: The Unusual 1930’s Pierced Heiress

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By Paul King, BPA Founder & Researcher

One would think that a neck piercing in the 1930s would be the most surprising detail of any woman’s life, but not for our Piercing Pioneer, Georgia Perkins, a.k.a. Mrs. Jake Hamon.

Georgia was born in Kansas, where she  met her husband Jacob Louis Hamon, aka Jake. After Jake obtained a law degree, the couple moved to Oklahoma. In 1909, they had two children, Jake Jr. and Olive Belle.

Jake senior was a risk-taking, young Republican, who speculated on oil and railroads, both of which paid off, substantially

He became known as “The Oil King of Oklahoma.” Jake even brokered a deal to build a railroad with the famed circus entrepreneur, John Rigley.

From historical records, Jake’s character appears shady while he was the attorney general of Oklahoma. Rumors of corruption marred his political career from the beginning. Allegedly, he extorted gamblers on his road to building wealth and power. Soon after while lobbying in Washington, D.C., he was accused of attempting to bribe a Senator. By far, the most scandalous charges against him were for buying votes for Warren G. Harding’s nomination as the Republican party presidential candidate. The estimates for payouts ranged from $250,000 to $1,000,000 (approximately $3 to 12 million in today’s dollars). The backroom dealings were rumored to provide Jake and his cronies exclusive access to the oil rich fields of Teapot Dome, Wyoming. The ensuing congressional investigation would forever tarnish the legacies of Jake Hamon and President Harding. Hard to believe, but the Hamons’ personal lives were even more outrageous! At 40, Jake met the young Clara Belle Smith. The two fell in love. Reports remain contradictory for which or if both Hamons couldn’t stomach a ruinous divorce, so they remained married. Jake put his mistress through  school and then hired her on as his personal secretary. To make hotel stays less problematic, Jake paid $10,000 to his nephew to marry Clara so that she could legally obtain the last name Hamon. Despite these great lengths for appearances, the affair was a poorly kept secret.

As fate would have it, Georgia’s cousin was the wife of then presidential hopeful, Warren Harding. As mentioned previously, Jake paid a considerable sum to buy the nomination for Harding to go on to win the presidency. Once elected and with pressure from his wife, President Harding, or most likely Harding’s wife, would not accept Jake’s mistress in Washington. Jake would have to reconcile with his legal wife. It’s reported that Jake and Clara were known for drunken arguments. Their tensions crescendoed on November 21, 1920, in Ardmore, Oklahoma. Clara shot Jake in the liver. He died five days later. Jake’s story flip-flopped from self-inflicted to a desperate plea for leniency for Clara. The murder trial became national headline news followed around the country. Despite Georgia’s damning testimony and demands for the electric chair, Clara was acquitted on self-defense. One of Clara’s legal defense team was the twin brother of the judge! Obviously, the soundness of the jury’s verdict has been debated Despite the controversy, our piercing pioneer Georgia Perkins, the now widower Mrs. Jake Hamon, bounced back! In 1922, our protagonist married a wealthy Chicago banker, only to divorce him a year later. The cause given was domestic cruelty. Reportedly, her new husband “practiced his ju-jitsu” skills on his wife.

After her second marriage, Georgia started playing ranked golf in the nascent women’s tournaments. At this time, there were no “pro” females, the prizes were strictly honorary. Once cash was included, winnings still remained much lower than men’s. Even so, Georgia’s prowess on the green would keep her name in regional papers for most of the next de-cade, albeit, not headlining or sensational.


“Madison” piercing with monofilament weed eater line as a retainer, photo c. early 1990s.
Excerpt from the book African Giant, pre-1955 photo of Men of Mungonge Dance by Rehna Cloete near Kwango Congo. This is the type of image that might have inspired Mrs. Hamon. Left

 After the criminal and political scandals of the 1920s, much less information is available for Mrs. Jake Hamon. We know she traveled exclusively, including parts of Africa. However, it remains elusive from which peoples she drew inspiration for her throat pin piercing.

Then Ripley’s strange cartoon depicting “Mrs. Jake Hamon” with a throat piercing published in national syndication, December 15, 1933. As was the custom with the Ripley’s series, the following day, they released the details of whatever strange custom appeared the previous day.

“Vampire Bite” Piercings

So should this Ripley’s explanation be taken at face value? Did this throat pin really serve as a memorial to Jake Hamon, the selfish, politically corrupt, drunken, and child-abandoning adulterer?

I’ve been unable to find any additional representation of her piercing or information on her motivation or background story of the peoples she witnessed in Africa. Unfortunately, the Hamon Library in Dallas says they have no personal papers or letters for the first Mrs. Jake Hamon.

Forgive my digression, but this family’s colorfulness doesn’t quit  yet.

Georgia’s son Jake Jr. went on to marry a beautiful young woman named Nancy, an aspiring actress who had one role in a movie with Mae West, The Heat’s On. This marriage began the illustrious escapades of the second “Mrs. Jake Hamon.”

The couple were faithful Republican supporters and hobnobbed with presidents such as Johnson and the first Bush. After her husband’s passing, Nancy became a fabulously wealthy widower worth hundreds of millions. She is rumored to have said she wanted to live her life in such a fashion that her last check would bounce. She was a well-documented Dallas socialite, philanthropically shaping the city’s institutions, while throwing extravagant theme parties with elephants and performers such as Louis Armstrong. Of particular interest, she had lost her finger in a blendor accident. Carlo Rambaldi, the special effects artist for E.T., personally created her prosthetic finger with a graceful arc for cocktail parties.

I couldn’t make this shit up.

Point 82: Sarah Wooten

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By Elayne Angel, Rings of Desire, Reprinted from The Point Issue 64

President’s Award

One of my favorite things about serving as APP President is that I have the “job” of bestowing an annual award. There aren’t any formal or established criteria for me to follow, and in some ways that makes it even harder to reach a decision on the winner. That said, when I came up with the idea of naming this individual, I knew it was absolutely the right choice.

I wanted to make it clear during my brief speech at the banquet that it shouldn’t only be the super-sparkly, outgoing, attention-getting folks (such as myself) who are noticed. I wanted to recognize someone who is hardworking and highly participatory, but in a quieter, more behind-the-scenes way than some of us.

This person studied photography at the Art Institute of Chicago in 1992-93. They have been a professional piercer since 1998 and an APP member since 1999. This piercer worked in a studio as an employee for eight years, until 2006 when that business closed. They opened their own studio in 2007. This person is incredibly devoted, dedicated, consistent, and cares deeply about doing quality work.

This recipient has served admirably on the Conference Committee since it formed in 2008; she also volunteered at our annual events before that. She handles a task that is surely one of the most daunting and difficult with grace and compassion: She wrangles all of us speakers and our handouts and PowerPoint presentations so they are ready for Conference. Her patience and diligence are beyond measure. I’m a little embarrassed to admit she’s even had to goad me at times to extract my presentation materials.

Not only is this woman a wonderful piercer, a respected colleague, and a fantastic employer, she is also an amazing mother.

She has aptly been described as “The APP’s best kept secret.” This woman has earned my deepest respect and is so deserving of recognition for her efforts on behalf of the industry and this organization.

My selection for the 2013 recipient of the President’s Award is Sarah Wooten.

Thank you so much Sarah for all that you do. You earned this award so quietly and gently, yet thoroughly. Congratulations!

Preferring to make receiving the award a positive and pleasant experience, I did not require her to address the audience at the banquet. I am aware that this woman of many talents does not have public speaking high on her list of favorite things to do. So instead I suggested that she write something for The Point and here it is:

“I am feeling honored, humbled, and a little overwhelmed with having been chosen to receive the 2013 APP President’s Award. I like to joke around that I have some sort of obsession with volunteering, but the truth of the matter is that it’s one of the most rewarding aspects of having a career in this industry. I strongly believe that the APP has done an immeasurable amount of good for piercers, both for our industry and for our community. To me, the ability to give back by donating my time and energy in such a direct way is really gratifying. Being a part of the Conference Committee allows me to work closely with people I respect and admire, and to help create this wonderful educational event that benefits fellow piercers. I had no idea in advance just how much hard work goes into each year’s Conference, but the result makes the effort more than worth it.

“I’m incredibly thankful for the recognition. It makes me want to work harder and to do more. I’d also like to take this opportunity to encourage others to consider volunteering in some capacity. There are so many different ways to reach out and give something back, and I promise you’ll be glad that you did.”

Well said, Sarah!

Point 82: Alicia Cardenas

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By Casey Hosch, Sol Tribe Custom Tattoo & Body Piercing

Casey: Who are you?

Alicia: My name is Alicia Cardenas. I am a professional body piercer, tattooer, modification artist, and business owner in Denver, Colorado.

CH: How long have you been in the industry?

AC: Since July of 1994, so 24 years.

CH: Tell me a little about your apprenticeship.

AC: It was a very non-traditional apprenticeship under a woman who was very involved in the BDSM community. Her name was PJ and she was a Fakir Intensive graduate. She ran a tattoo/piercing/ dungeon shop in Denver called Bound by Design. My apprenticeship was very traumatizing! It was an unethical fast track to ritual in piercing. I don’t have any regret regarding the way I was taught, but would never do that to someone else. I consider myself to be a lifetime apprentice, forever learning especially in and around my involvement with the APP. I apprenticed for about 3 months. I went from never touching a client to full time body piercer in that three month period. Benefits of such a difficult apprenticeship are that I learned very quickly what I did and did not want to be involved in. I learned boundaries by  having  my  boundaries  pushed too far. I learned respect from not receiving any. I learned that even women can be abusive to other women. I learned that there is no amount of money that can replace trauma.

CH: Can you comment on the duality of science versus ritual, the importance of both in the piercing industry? With such a short apprenticeship, when did you experience/delineate both sides?

AC: When I started in the industry, there was very little science involved. We didn’t even package tools in disposable pouches. Tools went from autoclave into drawers and we used glutaraldehydes (cold sterilization) to disinfect. There were no regulations, no standards, and even the APP was merely beginning. There was only ritual and it was based (because of my teacher) in BDSM. Quickly I learned that this was not my way, sexually that is, but that I liked the ritual aspect of it. The intention and layers of emotion and spirituality called to me. The science and aspects of mathematics like measurements and clinical practices came much later and also intrigued me. I definitely helped bring the science to it after I became involved with different movements to get the industry regulated. The NEHA Body Art Code that all states use as their model codes, that was me in 1999.

CH: When you started, what was it like being a woman in a male run industry?

AC: DIFFICULT!!! I had to work twice as hard for half as much. I learned quickly to work with the shortcomings of my male counterparts, so we could  thrive as a team. I basically learned to wipe everyone’s ass to make myself an asset. I protected myself by laying down boundaries, basically telling all the men that I would not sleep with them to make my way to the top.

CH: How long have you been a business owner?

AC: Since 1996. I opened Addictions Tattoo Company with Chris Chrome in ‘96. In the summer of 1997 I opened Twisted Sol with Mike Nichols, and in 2009 I opened Sol Tribe with Kevin Strawbridge. Now I am the sole owner of Sol Tribe. So 21 years.

CH: I find it interesting that all your business partners have been men? Touch on that and why you have decided to go solo.

AC: I guess that is true. I have had many different collaborators over the years and many of them are men. My experience around male counterparts has been all over the spectrum. I have grown from having known them, I have emulated aspects of them, and I have outgrown them. I no longer wish to collaborate with anyone on a business level mostly because I work circles around people. I work hard and I have a lot of raw experience (I have fucked up a lot). I am, however, extremely grateful for all my partners even the one I don’t communicate with anymore. Each person I worked with has given me gifts of which I would not have gained on my own. I consider all my partnerships to have been successful.

CH: Who helped you on your journey to being the boss?

AC: My mother is my greatest influence and taught me to run my own show. She helped me open Twisted Sol the same year she passed away. I was always a bossy girl though, so it came very naturally to me. Turns out that bossy just means you are a strong leader.

CH: Why was it important to you to own your own business?

AC: If I didn’t own my own business, I would want to work for someone like me. Until that someone comes along I will continue do this (run my business). It’s important to follow your dreams and allow your visions to be realized.

CH: What change have you seen in the industry in the last 20 years?

AC: OMG! It’s almost unrecognizable. It’s heartbreaking… there is what I see as serious lack of ethics and respect in the younger generations of piercers. I have observed that many are no longer concerned with our history or lineage. BUMMER! Social media has changed the world and has certainly changed our industry. In my opinion you can have a huge following, do mediocre work (but you just happen to be able to take a decent photo of it), be a nightmare human who is cruel to others and to clients, and still be a sensation. Some things are going to need to change, and people are going to need to stop hiding behind their screens and learn to be good humans again.

CH: Let’s talk cultural appropriation. What is cultural appropriation?

AC: WOW. That’s a huge subject, and almost an article of its own. Let’s just say cultural appropriation is taking something, or using sacred symbolism, that is not culturally yours, for your gain. And using it without acknowledgment or education or even sensitivity of its original intention. Now having said that I would like to introduce a new phrase we should all become familiar with and that is cultural fascism. Cultural fascism is trying to control other people’s creative and free expression around cultural experience.

CH: Recently there was an ad from a jewelry company that didn’t sit well with a lot of folks due to the idea of cultural appropriation? What are your thoughts on that?

AC: It’s Cultural Fascism! Social justice warriors who are using social justice as a weapon to destroy people without knowing the entirety of the story. In my opinion, this is a huge subject and deserves a lot of attention. In this situation things went way too far. If your attempt to right a wrong (point out cultural appropriation) results in you threatening to harm someone over it, you have gone way beyond doing the work based in justice and you need to reexamine your work and vision.

CH: How does that affect you as a woman of color?

AC: Watching a bunch of people work out their decolonization and indoctrination is no longer interesting to me, especially on the internet. What America needs to know is that we, as a culture, were raised with white supremacy at the core of our values. And it’s going to take a lot more than a black president to pull us away from that. I am sad that we get caught up with what other people are choosing to do with their bodies when we still live in a world where people don’t have clean water and healthcare. Everyone needs to check their privilege and be rooted in the abundance we have come to know and stop taking it for granted. As a woman of color I am still distraught that there are not more women or women of color in our industry. I am horrified that a huge amount of the women in our industry still are on the outskirts of the industry and are heavily undereducated. I am mystified that people of color are not encouraged to start career paths in tattooing and body piercing. An industry with balance and diversity makes for a far richer industry (society). PERIOD.

CH: What advice would you give a young woman for success in the workplace? Or how do you continue to support women in the workplace?

AC: I continue to support women in the industry by investing in them. Teaching them and empowering them. My shop is an example of that! It’s run by badass women.

CH: Who have you trained? What is your experience around training others?

AC: I have trained only three people with full on apprenticeships, and only one is a full time piercer. It’s not a job for the weak. It takes constant growth and attentiveness. I am lucky to have trained you and consider our apprenticeship together to be one of the most thorough trainings I have ever witnessed, which only has half to do with me!!!!

CH: You trained me, the interviewer, what was that like as a whole? Why did you pick me?

AC: I picked you because you called and emailed me like 40 times. You being gifted in customer service was huge. I trained you because you would not take no for an answer and in this industry you have to fight for what you want. You were a natural born fighter. I am grateful that you carry on my legacy, not only in the moment of clean and effective piercing, but in a warmth, compassion, and effectiveness in touching other’s hearts.

CH: How do you achieve your work/life balance?

AC: I don’t! hahaha!!! I still live, work, and screw up my personal life constantly. But I would say having a system in place for self-care is what I am currently working on.

CH: Has being a mother changed any facts or opinions of the industry for you?

AC: Being a mother changed everything. Suddenly I had two kids, the shop and my real kiddo. Everything I learned in piercing has prepared me for parenthood. Compassion and patience. My child has expanded my conscientiousness.

CH: Where do you see yourself in the next five years? 10 years?

AC: I will always do body art. ALWAYS. It’s a lifestyle, not a job. But I imagine I will focus more on artwork and parenting and let you (the interviewer) run the shop until my kid can help you run it. I’d like to disappear into the woods and make a retreat center for healing. I would also like to sing in a mariachi band someday! 😉

CH: Who are some of your influences? Shout outs!

AC: Professionally—Women in the professional piercing industry who have inspired me include Elayne Angel, Gigi Gits from Kolo Piercing, Crystal Sims from Evolution, Ericka Smicenski from Somatic, Kristin Otter from Metamorphosis, Christiane Lofblad from Pinpoint in Oslo. And the anthropological efforts of Erika Skadsen. My favorite piercers also include Luis Garcia, Derek Lowe, Casey Hosch, Aaron Foster, Danny Yerna, Ryan Ouellette, Courtney Jane Maxwell, Chris Jennell. And on a personal level, Dave Field, Ana Paula Escalante, Caitlin McDiarmid, Beverly DeOlivera, Monica Larrea, Theresa Preston, Corey Lolley, and Casey Hosch.

Point 82: Raelyn Gallina

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By James Weber, Past APP President & Past Point Editor

The following appeared in issue 69 of The Point:

On September 6, 2014, the body modification industry lost one of its pioneers. After a long battle with cancer, Raelyn Gallina passed away.

In the early days of modern body modification, it was definitely a man’s world. Doug Malloy, Jim Ward, and Fakir are credited as being the “fathers” of the modern piercing movement, but while they were servicing a primarily male clientele, Raelyn was blazing a trail among women, offering piercing, branding, and scarification in the lesbian BDSM community. While Doug, Jim, and Fakir get the lion’s share of the credit for what modern piercing has become since it emerged in the late 70s, Raelyn’s name has often been little more than a footnote—and that’s a shame. (It is called “his-story,” after all.)

While she made her home in California’s Bay Area (the center of the modern body modification resurgence in the U.S. through the late 70s and 80s), Raelyn also had a tremendous impact on early body modification on the East Coast thanks to her travels. In the early 90s, she would see clients and do workshops in and around the Philadelphia, Washington D.C., and Baltimore areas, offering not only piercing, but also branding and scarification. At a time when feminists were leading the movement to politicize the body, she was creating a safe space for lesbians, leatherwomen, butches, femmes, the queer-identified, and even the occasional man. She presided over a women’s space, but welcomed everyone from the local queer communities.

Raelyn battled inflammatory breast cancer over ten years ago, and last May she found herself dealing with a recurrence that affected parts of her brain, bones, mediastinum, and lungs. She finished a course of 25 radiation sessions in June of 2013, and spent the fall and winter recovering. Although that radiation did a good job on many sites, Raelyn was still undergoing radiation treatments. Sadly, she lost that long, final battle. Raelyn was a pioneer in piercing, branding, and scarification, and even one of the early organizers of the APP, and without her influence our industry would not be where it is today. The world is poorer for her passing.

Point 82: Michaela Grey

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By Marina Pecorino, Point Editor

Michaela Grey in 1995. The photo was taken for PFIQ Issue 45 commemorating Gauntlet’s 20th Anniversary

Obviously, Jim Ward is widely regarded as the “father” of the modern, American piercing movement, but who is considered the mother? In my personal opinion, that  honorary title should go to Michaela Grey. At a piercing clinic in New York, Michaela met Jim Ward; she was a student at Sarah Lawrence at the time. Prior to this meeting, Michaela and her then girlfriend were performing piercings out of their dorm room, but Jim made such an impression on Michaela that she decided to move to San Francisco and seek an apprenticeship. In May 1991, Michaela was hired as a summer counter person at Gauntlet, and soon advanced into an apprenticeship position under Scott Shatsky and Karen Hurt.

An excerpt from Running the Gauntlet:

“By 1993 the mass proliferation of body piercing studios staffed with inadequately trained piercers was causing grave concern with health departments and legislators. In some places there was talk of outlawing body piercing altogether. We at Gauntlet had tried repeatedly to get others in the industry to police and regulate themselves, but with minimal success. It became apparent that unless we banded together and became proactive, we could very well find ourselves out of business. We knew that if body piercing were made illegal, the only piercers continuing to operate would be doing so clandestinely, and piercing clients would be no better off than they already were.

Any Gauntlet Senior Piercer who wanted to get their Master Piercer certification was required to undertake a special project. Michaela was ready to make this advancement, and her special project, the magnitude of which we didn’t realize at the time, was to attempt to create a network of responsible studios willing to work together with healthcare professionals and legislators to set reasonable standards for the industry and regulate rather than outlaw it. This became so time consuming that friction developed between Michaela and her coworkers. The store manager wanted to fire her. […]

Despite her rough edges, it was apparent to me that Michaela had too many things going for her to simply turn her out in the street. So rather than abandon her I made the decision to mentor her and take her on at corporate as my assistant. This gave her the time and freedom to work on a number of projects, including what eventually became the Association of Professional Piercers (APP). […]

In 1994 the State of California was poised to pass legislation (Assembly Bill 3787) that would regulate body piercing, tattooing, and permanent cosmetics. A handful of piercers from several studios began to network and strategize how best to assure that these forms of body modification were not outlawed. Those who met at the Gauntlet corporate office for those early meetings included Raelyn Gallina, several representatives from Body Manipulations, Nomad, and Primeval Body in L.A. Along with some of his students, including Idexa, Fakir also attended. The office was full. As the pending legislation grew closer to passing, a group got together and drove to Sacramento. Michaela spoke on behalf of the industry during one of the hearings for the bill. She also did a number of television interviews. The bill ultimately failed thanks to lobbying by the ear-piercing gun manufacturers. However, this did not end the threats to the industry, and the need for a professional organization to deal with them.

The APP founding members, left to right, Irwin Kane (Gauntlet), Raelyn Gallina, Vaughn (Body Manipulations), Michaela Grey (Gauntlet), Melisa Kaye (Body Manipulations), Richard Carter (Primeval Body), JoAnn Wyman (Body Manipulations), Elizabeth Brassil (Body Manipulations), Drew Ward (Gauntlet); kneeling, Blake Perlingieri (Nomad), Kristian White (Nomad)

Future meetings were held after hoursat the Market Street store. From these the APP came into being. Not surprisingly, there was much wrangling, many heated discussions, and some friction. Some of those who attended left in a huff never to return or to come back many years later. Blake Perlingieri helped Michaela with registering the organization for nonprofit status, opening a joint bank account for the funds, and starting its newsletter The Point. With the assistance of Ghadi Elias from Mastodon in San Diego, APP moved forward and organized its first board.”

Michaela served as the original Chair (later retitled “President”) of the Association of Professional Piercers, starting from its inception in 1994 until she transitioned to the International Liaison in June 1997. During this transition of the Board, in The Point: Issue 10, Kent Fazekas, incoming Chair, wrote the following about her:

“Michaela Grey. Words cannot express the amount of gratitude the APP has for you. The amount of work you have put forth toward the APP is remarkable. As chairperson of the APP your workload is enormous, and I can only imagine the amount of time per day you donate to the APP (I may be finding out real soon). You have a very pure heart Michaela and your actions show that you truly believe in the APP’s mission. We love you Michaela.”

During the fledgling years of the organization, in addition to her APP Chair responsibilities, she worked diligently to produce early issues of The Point. She also served as the co-editor for PFIQ, helping to redirect its focus from male/leather, to a more female friendly perspective. In PFIQ #45, Michaela wrote the following:

I do not discern between the experience of being pierced, the healing process, and the completed, integrated adornment; they are wholistic and inter-relative. Being pierced is a natural extension of my need to create an intentional environment for myself–a world of spiritual completeness, practicality, and uniqueness. I fiercely intend not to live an unexamined, blind life.

I started at the San Francisco Gauntlet in 1991. Prior to that, I spent two years as one of those uneducated hack piercers against whom I now crusade. My current responsibilities as an educator and media disseminator put me in the position of being able to make a real difference in the piercing experiences of others, for whom I am grateful. Piercing and other body-affirming practices are becoming ever more popular in defiance of an increasingly depersonalizing world. I am proud to be one of those spreading this message.

Michaela worked closely with Jim Ward to develop a piercer training curriculum for Gauntlet and co-author  a  written  manual called Responsible Body Piercing in 1993; she later became the director and primary instructor for these seminars, with other Gauntlet piercers co-teaching.

In 1998, prior to the existence of the President’s Award, the Board dedicated the “Jack Yount Memorial Certificate of Recognition” to Michaela, for her efforts in promoting excellence in professional piercing.

The Jack Yount Award, 1998

Due to friction with others in the industry because of her so called “conservative” views, Michaela stepped away from body modification to pursue a career in graphic design and production art. Later she went back to school for costume design and graduated from the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising (FIDM) in Los Angeles.

In 2005, the APP presented Michaela with a Lifetime Achievement award, stating that “her work to secure the stability of the [APP] in the early days were critical to its survival. Piercers have had the opportunity to speak to the regulations which govern them worldwide as a result of her efforts.” You can read more about this special award in  The Point: Issue 48.

This was originally intended to be an interview with Michaela Grey, but unfortunately, she declined the opportunity. She made it clear that she “left the industry due to gross persistent misogyny and disrespect for piercing’s history and elders” and as a result would prefer to keep her distance. Michaela is not alone in these feelings, and this underlying tone illustrates precisely why this issue of The Point is themed around the women in our industry, past and present.

From Brian Skellie:

Michaela knows that some of us commiserate with her for the rough times she had with APP, and how much I and many other people still hold her in high esteem. We should ensure our archive reflects Michaela with honor and respect as a person not just an integral past political figure. She worked tirelessly as an ally to our mission, no matter how uncomfortable or stressful it was. She took on so much in her role at 23 years old, put up with hard work and difficult debates along with the good, and much of it was thankless. Without Michaela, the APP could have just been a tiny, short lived CA endeavor. Thankfully she helped clear away some of the nonsense that gets in the way of the good work. There is much more to her personality and her work than the awards we gave her and back issues of The Point can illuminate.

We have kept in touch since her APP years. Michaela’s ever present wit shines in our interaction when I brought up the Archive and asked for her to reflect upon her involvement and share her ideas:

“Aside from the looming threat of ill-conceived legislation, I was forming the APP at the time I was running two Gauntlet piercer seminars a month. I observed a wide cross section of the piercers currently working, from folks I admired and respected to a lot of people I wouldn’t want piercing an apple juice carton with a straw. If I seemed excessively cautious it’s largely due to the truly scary folks I encountered in the seminars, and knowing that they represented a likely majority of the industry at the time (and sadly, probably still today).”

I believe her caution was sensible. She is skillfully self critical, and never needed my opinion or assistance. Some others at the time seemed to play the devil’s advocate and enjoy getting strong responses. This treatment of her efforts was lamentable. She should be remembered as a great gift to the trade. She saw video of the 20th Anniversary panel discussion and noted:

“I’m usually never thinking about that part of my life. It was very moving to see so many old cohorts gathered at that table to talk about the early days of the organization. All water under the bridge. I’m mostly pleasantly surprised. Allen’s mention of me was unexpected and got me a little misty. As he said, we butted heads often. It’s good to see that we both did it from love of the craft. It’s also interesting to see that some quandaries like “do we let crap jewelry manufacturers on the Expo floor” persist to the present day.”

Some companies have learned what it takes to make standard quality jewelry, and done well. Others still are dodging any light we shine on them, but we hope they will come around.

“I’m awed and humbled to see how the APP has grown. I’m also loving the international outreach! I have a number of the new Members from Mexico and Italy on my FB feed and it’s awesome to see it grow.”

Michaela with Jim Ward at the APP Banquet 2005 when she received the Lifetime Achievement Award

Point 81: The GEP Conference – first Brazillian Conference!

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Conference Educators
Conference Educator, Danny Yerna
Conference Educator, Gladix Porca Miseria
Conference Educator, Javier Guerra
Jesus “Sala” Salaverria
Tatiana Rodrigues and Andre Fernandes
(Organizers of the GEP Conference)

Point 81: Profile of a Responsible Piercer

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The following excerpt is from Responsible Body Piercing, the Gauntlet seminar training manual written by Michaela Grey and Jim Ward and first published in 1995. Reissued in 2016, copies of this historic document are available from runningthegauntlet-book.com

AN INTRODUCTION

When Gauntlet first came into being in 1975, who would have imagined the phenomenal popularity body piercing would be enjoying less than 20 years later? In response to the huge demand, people calling themselves “piercers” have been springing up all over. From tattoo shops to beauty salons, almost every city and town now has at least one so-called piercer in residence. A few of them are good; some do poor piercings but are at least clean, and some are just plain dangerous.

Presumably you are reading this because you want to become a piercer yourself, and it is hoped that you wish to become a responsible piercer. We have chosen to call this manual Responsible Body Piercing, NOT Professional Body Piercing. It is very important for you to understand that NO ONE can make you into a professional after a short course of study, and, in fact, we make no such claims. Experience has proven it takes between a year and a half and two years of supervised training for someone with aptitude to become a fully-qualified piercer. Anyone who leads you to believe that you are ready to start a piercing business after taking a weekend seminar and doing a few piercings is dishonest, irresponsible, and unethical. Professional piercers, like good health care workers, good hair stylists, or any other professionals, are not created overnight. They must all train and practice under  the  supervision of someone with more knowledge and experience. In  time they will gain the skills and confidence  necessary  to   win the trust of their clients  and make the piercing experience as untraumatic and painless as possible.

So what if you won’t be a professional by the time you finish this book. What is far more important is for you to start right now to be a responsible piercer. We encourage you to learn and practice your craft in an ethical, responsible, and, yes, professional way. Form in your mind an image of the professional you wish to be, and in time you will become that image.

This training manual is intended to provide a broad overview of the world of piercing, to teach the fundamentals of sterilization and hygiene, and to help you begin developing a safe and solid technique. It is beyond the scope of this text to make you a good piercer. That can only come with aptitude, practice, time, and patience.

The information herein is based upon the combined experience of nearly 20 piercers over a period spanning almost 20 years. And while these techniques are used daily in Gauntlet’s establishments, our piercers constantly seek ways to refine and improve them.

We all know there is a vast difference between just being able to do something and being able to do it professionally and well. Becoming a professional, “master” piercer—a title rapidly becoming meaningless because it is so abused these days—requires more than learning some basic information and techniques. A true “master” piercer always acts responsibly, i.e. safely, knowledgeably, and professionally. These are the traits and qualities you should cultivate and strive to assimilate. Unless and until they have all become an integral part of your being, you cannot consider yourself a professional, much less a “master,” piercer.

THE KNOWLEDGEABLE PIERCER

No matter what profession you pursue you will have to gain whatever knowledge is unique to it. Piercing is no different. Here are some of the things you will be required to know:

  • The names and locations of the various traditional piercings.
  • The best jewelry designs and materials for each.
  • How to prepare and mark them.
  • The appropriate piercing tools and techniques for each.
  • Their healing times and appropriate aftercare.
  • When a particular piercing isn’t a good choice for a particular individual.
  • Sterilization from A to Z.
  • How to deal with people, gain their trust, put them at ease.

THE SAFE PIERCER

Without question safety is the single most important requirement of any piercer. You simply must not put your clients or yourself at risk in any way.

  • Sterilization and hygiene must be strictly observed.
  • Never do a piercing that could endanger the piercee or install a piece of jewelry that is not appropriate even though the client might want it.
  • Never use an ear piercing gun to pierce anything. Period!
  • Absolutely never do piercing under the influence of drugs or alcohol. Likewise never pierce anyone who is intoxicated.

THE PROFESSIONAL PIERCER

With a solid knowledge of one’s craft and safe techniques and procedures, it is possible to be an acceptable piercer. To be a truly professional, “master” piercer requires the highest standards of character and conduct, qualities that go beyond the basics.

  • A professional piercer is ethical and honest. It is very important not to pretend to be something you’re not. Your clientele deserves the truth. They have a right to know the extent of your training and experience. Studying this manual does not entitle anyone to claim that they are “Gauntlet-trained.”
  • Arrogance and a know-it-all attitude are incompatible with professionalism.
  • The quality of a piercer’s work has a definite correlation to their motivation to pierce. Just as a physician who becomes a doctor for the prestige and money will make a poor caregiver, the piercer who is in it for a quick buck, or because it’s “cool” will probably not be very good at it.
  • Piercing requires patience and a willingness to listen to the fears of a client and respond to those fears in a way that will allow that person to relax and enjoy the experience. Although a good piercer will not always be able to connect with a client, they should make every effort to try and make the experience as positive as possible, or, if that isn’t possible, refer the client to another piercer. Whenever you are going to pierce someone, you should ask yourself, “Is this how I would want to be treated? Would I be comfortable in this situation”? Nothing will drive away business faster than a bad experience with you. And word of mouth can be your best or worst advertising.

These then are some of the most basic requirements of a responsible, professional piercer. Let’s now begin to look at these in greater detail.

Point 81: The President’s Corner

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Jef Saunders
APP President

“The Association of Professional Piercers (APP) is an international health and safety organization. It is a nonprofit voluntary alliance dedicated to the dissemination of information about body piercing. Governed by a voluntary elected Board of Directors, the APP is a united group of piercing professionals that freely shares information to help fellow members, piercers, health care professionals, legislators, health inspectors, and the general public get the best and most up-to-date information about body piercing.”

You’ve probably seen the preceding text so many times that you may  already  know it verbatim.  As a piercer interested or involved with the APP, you aren’t surprised by what our mission statement is. But have you really considered the importance of that mission? I can tell you, as a Board member, that the Mission Statement is a compass that always points to the kinds  of  decisions we should be making. The Association of Professional Piercers is a health and safety education organization. Our job is to openly share with anyone who might care to learn. This is a powerful mission, and one that touches me deeply.

Fakir Musafar speaks about body art, and body piercing specifically, in a way that few others do. To him, modification of the body isn’t just a fun thing we get to do to ourselves, it is an innate human right. That is something far deeper and far more important that can get lost in the day to day routine of a piercing shop. But I like to think about this art of ours the way Fakir taught me to think of it: a human right.

That puts our mission as an educational organization in a very unique light to me. By providing education in so many forms, we are trying to assist the entire planet to safely express themselves. What a responsibility! Yet, so many from our community rise to the occasion again and again. Some of us provide education at the Association’s annual conference, of course, but there is so much out there for piercers and the public alike. From sister organizations, to independent schools, and even online forums; our community has embraced the mission of the APP and run with it.

Imagine where we might be if the earliest members of the piercing community had attempted to keep  their  techniques  entirely secret? If they had refrained from writing magazines, publishing books, producing tutorial videos, and making piercing schools? The piercing community wouldn’t be anything like what it is today.

In this issue of The Point you will read about body piercing education not only through the APP Conference, but outside of our organization as well. To those who have given so much of their hard work to help improve the art of body piercing, we say thank you.

Post Script: I am writing this just a few days after the passing of a career-long educator, Rick Frueh. Rick was an APP Board Member, an instructor for our conference, an instructor for Health Educators, Inc., an enormous part of the 2013 APP Procedure Manual, creator of the Body Modification Learning Forum, and a friend. He’s left a legacy of body piercing education that we have all benefited from in one way or another. He will be missed.

Point 80: Piercing: Erik Dakota

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Interview by Sean Dowdell, City/State: Santa Cruz, CA

THE PIERCER THAT EVERYONE SHOULD KNOW ABOUT, BUT DOESN’T

Sean Dowdell: Erik, let me start by saying that it is a huge honor to do this interview with you. You have given me and the piercing industry a lot of insightful and innovative years. It has bothered me  for several years at this point in my career when I speak to young piercers and most don’t know your name or the incredible contributions and impact you made on our industry.

I have looked up to your work for my entire career and you are honestly one of the most inspirational figures in my piercing world. I feel that this interview is an important part of our industry’s history that   I would like my colleagues and peers to read and know.

Can you give us a little background as to how you came to be interested in piercing?

Erik Dakota: I lived and grew up in Santa Cruz, CA. I was going to school for mechanical engineering when piercing started to creep into my life. Early 1980s, Gauntlet was the only real studio on the   West Coast. I was using Silver Anchor, non-annealed jewelry and it was loads of fun, haha! I got excited about piercing and seeing what the mind and body was able to overcome. I was very experimental in different communities such as the punk and gothic scenes, and the “nerd” and “BDSM” culture seemed to come together very naturally in my world of friends. I am straight. However, a lot of my friends and their friends were in the LGBT communities and I was immersed at least on the fringes of that lifestyle. I enjoyed the “Body Play” and seeing what the body was capable of accomplishing and enduring.

There were really no piercing studios at this time other than Gauntlet and everything was really expensive. At the time, us college students couldn’t really afford to play in the piercing world as often as we had wished, so I started getting into manufacturing jewelry myself. I wasn’t around any other actual piercers yet, so I started experimenting on myself and friends by piercing everyone. I wanted  to learn more about the technical aspects.

Gregorio Gus had arranged for me and him to watch Elayne Angel pierce down in LA at Gauntlet for the day. This was really my first block of actual piercing knowledge. She was very kind and insightful as to how to perform certain techniques and was extremely helpful. Elayne was really impressed    and thrown back because I had actually had my rook pierced and she had never seen one before. Apparently, I invented it which was a shock to me as well. I always assumed someone else had done this, but apparently not!

Sean Dowdell: I think you were a disrupter in the piercing industry and you have pushed the boundaries further than most people know. How do you think that came about?

Erik Dakota: Alan Falkner and I were hanging out and he was a great supporter of mine in pushing me into the field more and more (this was before Alan actually got involved  in piercing). This was a really exciting time for me and all of us! Alan eventually went on to be one of the top suspension artists in the world as well. With friends like Alan supporting me and several others, I started to feel more confident about my abilities not only with piercing but with the design and manufacturing of jewelry.

Sean Dowdell: How did you work around the issues of not having standardized jewelry at the time of your learning in the 1980’s?

Erik Dakota: By working with Silver Anchor, I realized that there were so many areas that it could improve the design. I wanted to pierce full time and design jewelry.

Needles at the time were horrible, we were better off using a 16 penny nail. Gauntlet had their own needles on the market and I didn’t like the style of needle that they offered. It was simply not sharp and really difficult to use. So… I started developing my own needle designs and introducing them to the industry. Back in this time, it was so hard to find a simple good needle and today it’s almost hard to find a bad one.

Sean Dowdell: Weren’t you involved in creating some of the jewelry standards?

Erik Dakota: Yes, when I started making barbells, I noticed that there were gaps between the barbell shaft and ball, so I designed  a countersunk ball. It got rid of issues with fluids and debris getting caught in the gap.

I was the first to introduce the ASTM standards to the industry in my catalog and created lot numbers for full traceability with stainless steel and titanium. I was also the first to “passivate” my stainless steel lots (this means that any deposits left on the steel from the tooling, and improved the overall metal surface; while manufacturing it would be removed). I knew within the medical implants field, the need for this when using ASTM stainless yet sometimes the SS would get rust deposits on it.

Sean Dowdell: Did you ever own a studio and where?

Erik Dakota: I opened the first piercing shop called Anubis Warpus in Santa Cruz and (I didn’t own it, however I helped open it around 1982). This was the same year the Body Manipulations opened in San Francisco as well. I never owned a studio myself; I was much more into the jewelry company Dakota Steel. I had to make  a decision by going all in with piercing or all in with jewelry. I chose the jewelry company and decided to pierce on the side.

Dakota Steel did well for quite a few years until I decided that things weren’t going the way I had hoped in my life and the company’s direction was far from what I wanted. I tenured my resignation to Dakota Steel (a company that I founded and poured my life and  soul into) in 2000 and founded (Noble Industries) DBA: Lotus Body Jewelry on my own. Around 2008, I decided I had my fill of the jewelry industry. I love piercing, I love making jewelry but at the time I was just over it.

Sean Dowdell: Who was most influential to you in the early years and why?

Erik Dakota: Jim Ward was an enormous inspiration. I was actually able to purchase my first set of Pennington forceps from Jim personally and I thought he was a god.

Sean Dowdell: What type of things did you invent in the 90s that most piercers wouldn’t know?

Erik Dakota: The big 3 were: the Rook piercing, the Daith piercing, and the development of a lot of tools such as small jaw Penningtons, fine tooth serrations on Foerster forceps, ring expanders, and slotted septum clamps.

Sean Dowdell: The Industrial piercing. Yes, for all of you youngsters out there this man invented all of these!

What do you remember about coming up with the Daith piercing and are you surprised by the popularity of something you created?

Erik Dakota: I think that it is all about the jewelry choices that are available now. That has made these specific piercings as popular as they are right now.

Sean Dowdell: What are your current interests and hobbies?

Erik Dakota: I still love to pierce, and cutting and suspension, as much as I can.

Sean Dowdell: What do you think your greatest contribution to the industry has been and why?

Erik Dakota: ASTM Certification for jewelry in our field.

Sean Dowdell: Do you have any regrets?

Erik Dakota: Yes, every day. I think about the industry all time. I felt like I was pushed out and if I had the funding I would get back into it in a heartbeat.

Sean Dowdell: What are you doing now?

Erik Dakota: I went into medical manufacturing. I used everything that I was doing in the jewelry industry and easily moved into the manufacturing departments for a couple of companies. I’m glad to have been a part of the industry for so long and hope it continues to grow.

Point 79: The 90s

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…FORGET THE REST THERE’S NOTHING ELSE BEYOND THE BODY…
Brian Skellie

THE NINETIES
COMPILATION BY KENDRA JANE B
The Point Editor

“What can I say about the nineties? Those ten years shaped and influenced the rest of my life more than any other decade I have experienced. I graduated high school, had my first serious boyfriend, went to university, lost my virginity, found my fem- inist voice and became a regis- tered voter, lived on my own for the first time, and got my first body piercings.” —Kendra Jane B.  

“The early 90s were the golden years of ‘celebrity piercer.‘ Recognized piercers were treated like rock stars. These ‘good ol’ days’ weren’t ‘better times,’ but they were certainly more wild.”—Paul King

“The 90s were my coming of age in several ways; both as a young man and as a piercer.”—Luis Garcia

“The 90s was when I first discovered music, sex, and body piercing (in that order). I saw pierced nipples on MTV in 1995, and here I am now.”—Cody Vaughn

“My formative years were in the 90s. In 7th grade I heard “Smells like Teen Spirit,” and it’s impossible to explain how much influence that one song had on the rest of my life. By 1999 I had graduated high school and begun my career as a body piercer.”—Jef Saunders

“It was anarchy really? No rules, just putting needles anywhere you could grab. It was equal parts awesome and ridiculous.”-Ryan Ouellette

Whether showing off by the pool or volunteering for the APP, Brian Skellie’s passion for our industry hasn’t changed since the 90s.

Conference has come along way since the 90s but if you look hard enough you might see some familiar faces, ones that still make our Conference great, decades later.